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January 2008Previous months' recommendations:
June/July
2006 |August 2006 | September/October
2006 | November 2006| December
2006 | Jan/Feb 2007 | March
2007 | June 2007 | July
2007 | August/September 2007 | October/November
2007 | December 2007
Casa de Mouraz Branco
2005 Dão, Portugal
This organic white Dão is a bit of an oddity, but it’s fantastic.
Lovely reductive, burnt match nose combines with some barrel-ferment
richness. Long, broad, full palate is minerally and fresh with lovely
depth of flavour. A very distinctive Burgundian style. 92/100 (£8.99
Duncan Murray Wines, Philglass and Swiggot, Corks of Cotham)
Errazuriz Estate Wild
Ferment Chardonnay 2006 Casablanca Valley, Chile
I like the concept behind this
wine. 'Wild Ferments' are those where cultured yeasts aren't added. What
happens is that indigenous yeasts from the vineyard and winery environment
begin the fermentation slowly, and then after a while the regular wine
yeast, Saccharomyces cerevisiae,
kicks in and finishes the job. Because of this, the wines that result
(particularly the whites, in my experience) have added complexity of
flavour, and a rather different mouthfeel. And here, with this Chardonnay,
it works well. It has a warm, complex nose of butter, toast, herbs,
vanilla and fruit spanning the spectrum from figs to lemons. The palate
shows nice toasty complexity and nice fresh acidity, finishing long.
Altogether, this is a thought-provoking, rich style of Chardonnay that may
well improve with a couple of years in bottle. Good value for money.
90/100 (£9.99 Tesco, Stone, Vine and Sun; £11.95 Berry Bros & Rudd)
Montana Terroir Series
Corbett’s Legacy Pinot Noir 2006 Waipara, New Zealand
One of the new terroir series from NZ giant Montana, this is a
brilliant wine from the Waipara region, near Christchurch on South Island.
There’s a bit of spicy, earthy presence to the meaty dark fruits nose.
The palate has a nice spicy, earthy depth to it with good acidity. It’s
a really lovely complex, savoury wine. 93/100 (Not sure of stockists –
imported by Pernod Ricard UK)
Domaine du Closel La
Jalousie Savennières 2005 Loire, France
A really fantastic, intense dry Chenin from the Loire, boasting aromas
of herbs, honey, straw and lanolin. The palate is concentrated, mineralic
and dry, with a strong savoury, almost cheesy character to it. Nice
acidity keeps things very fresh. It’s quite a challenging drink now, but
I reckon this will age very well and pick up complexity over the next
decade. 90/100 (£9.95 The Wine Society, £11.95 Tanners)
Southern Right Sauvignon
Blanc 2007 Walker Bay, South Africa
A fresh, intense and rather unusual Sauvignon Blanc from a relatively
cool-climate maritime region in South Africa. The dominant feature here is
a distinctive green pepper, chalky methoxypyrazine streak, which adds some
savoury complexity to the intense herby, grassy fruit. It’s a
concentrated wine that would work very well with food, but isn’t really
suited to casual sipping. Beautifully packaged with a lovely label, a
half-length silver capsule (a la Ridge) and a high quality natural cork.
88/100 (£8.99 Noel Young, www.sawinesonline.co.uk)
Cono Sur Visión Gewürztraminer
‘Las Colmenas’ 2007 Casablanca Valley, Chile
A perfumed, aromatic white with lovely fresh floral, grapey, lychee
aromas. The palate is dry but exuberantly fruity showing fresh, citrussy,
gently herby, grapey flavours. There’s nice concentration of flavour
here, along with some delicacy—this grape variety is one that can tend
to be overly heavy and fat at times. Delicious and food friendly. 89/100 (£7.99
Majestic)
Villa Maria Pinot Noir
Cellar Selection 2006 Marlborough, New Zealand
Lovely nose: fresh, spicy meaty
red fruits here, with nice perfume. Ripe but still very fresh and quite
cherryish. The palate is complex and spicy. It's really expressive with
lively acidity and an appealing meatiness. A delicious wine. 92/100 (£11.99
Tesco, Thresher, Booths)
Champagne Jean Moutardier Cuvée Selection NV
Quite deep coloured, this is a 50:50 blend of Pinot Noir and
Chardonnay. It’s a serious Champagne. The intense, toasty nose has a
fine herby edge and hints of toffee. The palate has rich toast and brioche
notes, along with a bit of nuttiness and some citrus freshness. Great
depth and intensity: a full flavoured style that is just delicious.
Brilliant stuff. 92/100 (£19.95 Great Western Wine)
Herbert Triebaumer Ruster Ausbruch 2002
Burgenland, Austria
Yellow/gold in colour, this is a rich, almost pungent sweet wine with
lifted aromas of cantaloupe melon and apricot, alongside spicy and herbal
notes. The palate is viscous (163 g/litre residual sugar) with bold,
concentrated flavours of ripe apricot, citrus and melon, together with
some spicy complexity. It’s a serious wine of real class and intensity
that just manages to stay balanced despite the immense sweetness. 93/100 (£21.95
Great Western Wine)
My rating
system explained. Use www.wine-searcher.com
to locate a stockist in your area and my directory
of UK wine merchants for details of those listed here. See also: the wineanorak's
shopping list - recommended wines from each of the main UK retail
outlets. These recommendations are truly independent: I don't accept
payment or other favours for inclusions, nor do I sell wine.
E-mail me with your recommendations or suggestions
at jamie@wineanorak.co.uk
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