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July 2007Previous months' recommendations:
April
2006 | May 2006 | June/July
2006 |August 2006 | September/October
2006 | November 2006| December
2006 | Jan/Feb 2007 | March
2007 | June 2007
Heggies Vineyard Chardonnay 2005 Eden Valley, Australia
We begin with a really nice Aussie Chardonnay. Close planted Bernard
clones grown at an altitude of 550 metres. Hand picked, gently pressed,
wild ferment in French oak. 14% alcohol, tin-lined screwcap closure. This
has quite a delicate nose (for an Aussie Chardonnay, at any rate), showing
fresh, complex spicy, lemony fruit with a fine creamy and delicately
bready edge. The palate is quite light - almost transparent - with a fine
toastiness adding richness to the nicely phrased lemon, pear and vanilla
flavours that work well together. I hate to use the term 'Burgundian', but
that's where this wine is headed, although the cleanness and alcoholic
depth might have given its new world origins away. But this really is a
sophisticated, understated effort. Very good/excellent 92/100
Malhadhina Nova Branco 2006 Alentejo, Portugal
Next, a new wave
Portuguese white. Antão Vaz, Arinto and Chardonnay fermented in new
French and American oak. A deep yellow colour, this is quite a serious
white wine. It has a minerally, smoky nose with full, fresh, assertive
melon and citrus fruits. The palate has a nice combination of spicy oak
with powerful, rich tropical/melon fruit, some savoury nuttiness and good
acidity. There’s lots of flavour here, but quite a bit of complexity and
nice poise. Quite tight at the moment, and undoubtedly with medium-term
ageing potential. A style best enjoyed with food. 91/100
Secano Pinot Noir 2006 Leyda Valley, Chile
From Vina Leyda, I reckon this
wine has usurped Cono Sur's cheapie as the world's best value Pinot Noir.
It has a lovely sweet cherry and berry fruit nose which is perfumed, with
a bit of spice and some subtle herbiness. Forward and quite elegant. The
palate is smooth with elegant cherry fruit. It's simple and primary, but
there's some spice and again a bit of herbiness. Just a hint of green
sappiness, but it doesn't clamp down too much on the bright fruit.
Delicious. Very good+ 89/100 (£6.99 Marks & Spencer)
Churchill Estates Douro 2004 Portugal
I like this wine a good
deal: it tastes very much of the Douro and it's affordable, balanced and
very drinkable. Nicely perfumed nose of dark spicy black cherry fruit with
a savoury, dusty edge. The palate shows pure dark fruits with some spicy
definition and a really attractive savouriness. Despite the relatively
high alcohol (14.5%) this isn't a sweet, overripe style, but instead shows
great balance and quite a bit of class. Very impressive. Very
good/excellent 91/100 (£7.99 Majestic, has recently been on offer at £6.39 if you
buy two)
Finca Sobreño Toro 2005 Spain
Deep coloured, this is all about rich, vibrant, sweet, almost jammy fruit.
I say ‘almost’, because there’s still a bit of definition here,
which stops it getting too mushy. Ripe black fruits are the order of the
day, with a bit of spicy support from American oak. The fruit is always
going to win out, though, and this is a generous, ripe red that’s sure
to win lots of friends. The only slightly negative point is a subtle
green, rubbery note, which distracts a little – I reckon this is from
the American oak, but I can’t be sure. A super effort for the 3 for 2
price. 87/100 (£7.99 Thresher, but 3 for 2 which = £5.33 each)
Champagne
Perrier-Jouët Grand Brut NV
Now for
three really good Champagnes, beginning with this attractive wine that is
well worth the asking price. Nice complex toasty nose, with a bit of
herbiness. Quite
tight. The palate is fresh and complex with tight herby flavours and a
lovely savoury character. Impressive. 91/100 (£25.99 Oddbins, Majestic,
Harrods, Selfridges)
Champagne
Pommery Brut Royale NV
Lovely
fresh yet deep nose, with vanilla, toast and some sweet honeyed fruit. The
palate is crisp, with lemony freshness and good acidity, as well as warm,
nutty vanilla flavours. Great balance here with good complexity. Nice
stuff. 92/100 (£24.99 Oddbins)
Champagne Bollinger Grand Année 1997
Bollinger's
Grande Annee is one of the few elite Champagnes that is really worth the
price premium. The 1997 is a lovely complex, full-flavoured fizz, with rich, toasty,
nutty flavours and good acidity. Bold but balanced, this is delicious.
92/100 (c £45, widely available)
Château Tirecul la Gravière 2002 Montbazillac
Here's a
fantastic sweet wine to round things off with. Powerful nose is sweet with intense apricot and peach
fruit, and a touch of vanilla. The palate is intense and viscous with lots
of spice and vanilla, as well as sweet peach-in-syrup notes. Wonderfully
intense and quite complex, this is a rich, fat style of sweet wine. 92/100
(Les Caves de Pyrene)
My rating
system explained. Use www.wine-searcher.com
to locate a stockist in your area and my directory
of UK wine merchants for details of those listed here. See also: the wineanorak's
shopping list - recommended wines from each of the main UK retail
outlets. These recommendations are truly independent: I don't accept
payment or other favours for inclusions, nor do I sell wine.
E-mail me with your recommendations or suggestions
at jamie@wineanorak.co.uk
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