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south
african wine, part 9
Graham
Beck
Graham
Beck Wines is, along with Vergelegen, highly visible as the modern
face of South African
wine.  These
are both big operations, well supported financially, and aim to make
high quality wines in reasonable quantities, with a broad range of styles.
Established
by coal magnate and all round business person Graham Beck, the first
wines were made here in 1991. Expansion has led to the creation of a
second cellar, in Franschoek (pictured above), to complement the
original one in Robertson, and this is where I visited to see some
vineyards and taste through the range with winemaker Erika Obermeyer.
The
grapes come from four sizeable vineyard holdings in the Western Cape.
The two largest are the original Madeba farm in Robertson (146
hectares) and in Franschoek (130  hectares),
and the other two are in the Heldeberg region of Stellenbosch.
Altogether production ranges from 275 000–400 000 cases each year,
from a total of 400 hectares of vineyard.
One of the specialities here is Méthode Cap Classique (fizz) created
by Pieter Ferreira, who was on the closures debate panel with me in
May at the London Wine Fair. Pieter has overall responsibility for all
the Graham Beck wines.
Graham
Beck Brut Rosé 2004
Pinot Noir and Chardonnay grapes
make this, and they go into the press together. It’s a
deliciously fresh strawberry-tinged fizz with a nice acid zing. Dry
and fresh with good grip. Very good+ 85/100
Graham
Beck Pheasant’s Run Sauvignon Blanc 2005 Durbanville
Quite youthful and zesty with forward fruit. The palate has a
rounded, fruity character. This tastes youthful and a bit awkward, but
there’s lots of fruit here. Very good+ 85/100 (Tasted subsequently
– this has since developed and is nicely balanced with a contrast
between the richer, moe tropical notes and the steely freshness.)
Graham
Beck Viognier 2004
Perfumed, fruity nose is quite bright with lemony, peachy fruit.
The palate is quite rich and rounded, with lovely soft texture to the
fruit. Very accessible and quite delicious, with just a subtle hint of
oak. Very good+88/100
Graham
Beck Shiraz 2003 Franschoek/Stellenbosch
From four vineayrds, 20 000 cases produced, aged mainly in
American oak. Nice dark fruits on the nose, which is quite sweet with
some spicy tarriness. The palate is concentrated and modern with rich,
spicy oak overlaying the fruit. A satisfying, full-on wine. Very good+
89/100
Graham
Beck The William 2001
A Cape blend with 65% Cabernet and 35% Pinotage. Lush, smooth dark
fruits nose with some refined gravelly notes. The palate is
concentrated and quite richly fruited with a sophisticated tarry,
minerally twist to the dark fruits on the palate. A lovely
concentrated, dark wine with some future ahead of it. Very
good/excellent 91/100
Graham
Beck The Joshua 2003
A Shiraz/Viognier blend. Lovely dark fruits nose with a perfumed,
slightly meaty twist. Deep and satisfying. The palate shows a good
concentration of rather elegant, well defined black fruits. Good
ripeness, some meatiness and also nice weight and structure. Very
good/excellent 92/100
Wines tasted 12/05
Find
these wines with wine-searcher.com
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