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The
new Douro: part 7
Quinta
do Vale Meão
F.
Olazabal & Filhos Lda., Cx. Postal 113, 5150-501 Vila Nova de Foz
Côa,
Portugal
T: +351-279 762 156, F: +351-279 762 207
fjolazabal@mail.telepac.pt
Vale
Meão is a historic Quinta that’s now established as one of the
front runners in the
Douro
table wine revolution. It started life as one of the shrewd
acquisitions of the celebrated Dona Antónia Adelaide Ferreira. In
1877 she purchased 270 hectares of land near Vila Nova de Foz Côa in
the
Douro
superior, and established a quinta and vineyards. The Quinta has
remained in the family and is owned today by Francisco Olazabal. He
was previously president of the A.A. Ferreira enterprise and this is
where  the
grapes went to, forming the bulk of the legendary Barca Velha, which
for decades was the only notable table wine to come from the
Douro
.
In
1998 when Francisco left Ferreira, he decided to go it alone and use
the grapes from his estate to make his own wine, together with his son
(also called Francisco, but known as Xito, pictured right). The
old cellar was renovated and turned into a modern winery, keeping the
old granite lagares.
The
estate consists of a sizeable 62 hectares of vines, with three
different soil types: slate, granite and alluvial gravel. These
different terroirs are important for the final wine: for example, the
Touriga from granite tastes almost like Dão, whereas from schist it
is much richer and fuller. The different varieties are planed in
blocks, with overall proportions being Touriga Nacional 35%, Tinta
Roriz 30%, Touriga Francesa 15%, Tinta Amarela 10%, Tinta Barroca 5%
and Tinto Cão 5%.
The
first release was the 1999, which was met with great critical acclaim.
Meandro
2001
The second wine has a relatively small production: in this vintage
it was 37 000 bottles. It is matured in older barrels. This has a
ripe, supple nose with red and black fruits. The palate shows nice
sweet fruit with some good definition and a liqouricey edge. Tasty
stuff that’s quite elegant. Very good/excellent 90/100
Quinta
do Vale Meão 2001
Fantastic nose: complex black fruits with floral elements and
notes of herbs, liquorice and tar. The palate is rich, ripe and
concentrated with intense red and black fruits. A powerful, ripe with
with lots happening. Excellent 95/100
Touriga
Nacional sample 2003
Opaque colour. Thrilling ripe, perfumed nose of sweet black
fruits. Very ripe but some freshness to the fruit with good acidity. A
brilliant component, potentially excellent.
Quinta
do Vale Meão Vintage Port 2001
Knockout open nose of explosive sweet liquoricey, herby fruit:
forward and nicely defined. The palate is sweet, ripe and open with
amazing fruit quality. Breathtaking. Savoury, spicy, tannic edge. Very
forward and appealing. Maybe not a long term wine but fantastic now.
Excellent 95/100
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