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Austrian
wine series
The
wines of Emmerich Knoll, Wachau
Weingut Knoll, Unterloiben 10, A-3601 Dürnstein,
Austria
Website: http://www.loibnerhof.at
UK agent: Richards Walford
 This is a stunning line up of wines from one of the
Austrian giants, whose fantastically elaborate labels were memorably
(and incorrectly) described to me once as the 'exploding Jesus'.
Actually, the label depicts not Jesus, but St Urban, the patron saint
of wine growing.
Based
in Unterloiben in the Wachau, Knoll have plots in many of the leading
vineyards of the region, totalling almost 15 hectares in all.
Emmerichs II and III are currently in charge of this family-run
domaine.
The
notes below are from two tastings, the first in February 2008, and the
second in 2006.
Knoll Grüner Veltliner Federspiel Kreutles 2006
Wachau, Austria
Open, fresh and slightly herby with some peppery depth. A focused,
bright style that’s quite pure. 88/100
Knoll Riesling Kabinett Pfaffenberg 2006 Kremstal,
Austria
Pure, focused limey nose. The palate is fresh and bright with good
acidity and a mineralic twist. Lovely lime and herb character: a
delicious wine. 90/100
Knoll Riesling Kabinett Pfaffenberg 2004 Kremstal,
Austria
Nice petrolly, herby evolution on the nose. The palate is focused
with some minerally, herby notes. Savoury and dry in character. 90/100
Knoll Riesling Smaragd Kellerberg 2005 Wachau,
Austria
Nice concentration of tight, herby, minerally, lemony flavours.
It’s concentrated, fresh and savoury, with great depth. 91/100
Knoll Riesling Smaragd Kellerberg 2004 Wachau,
Austria
Focused tight fruit with some herbiness and lime on the nose. The
palate has richness and depth, and is focused, broad and mineralic. A
really expressive wine. 92/100
Knoll Riesling Auslese 2005 Wachau, Austria
Rich limey nose is forward, sweet and aromatic, with lemon and a
bit of apricot. The palate is broad and viscous but avoids being
heavy, with bright acidity and lemony, melony fruit. A lovely sweet
wine. 92/100
(wines
tasted 02/08)
Knoll Grüner Veltliner
Schütt Smaragd 2003 Wachau
Clean, pure and fresh on the nose. Gently aromatic with some
richness. The palate has a lovely weight and texture with really
impeccable balance and a touch of white pepper character. Very
good/excellent 93/100
Knoll Grüner Veltliner
Loibenberg Smaragd 2003 Wachau
Fresh, clean, almost crisp nose is gently spiced. The palate has
lovely freshness and purity, and a nice texture. A bright wine with a
peppery finish. Very good/excellent 92/100
Knoll Riesling Reid
Pfaffenberg Kabinett 2002 Wachau
Crisp, beautfully aromatic citrussy nose. This is fantastic. The
palate is fresh with great poise and explosive acidity. Complex lemony
fruit dominates. Very good/excellent 93/100
Knoll Reid Pfaffenberg
Kabinett 2003 Wachau
Beautifully poised fresh nose is spicy, lemony and expressive. The
palate is tight and crisp with nice acidity and purity of fruit. An
elegant dry style. Very good/excellent 92/100
Knoll Riesling Reid
Loibenberg Smaragd 2003 Wachau
Wonderful fresh intensity to the rich aromatic nose. The palate is
rich, dry and complex with lots of intensity and a mineralic edge to
the full fruit. A stunning wine. Excellent 95/100
Knoll Riesling Reid
Schütt Smaragd 2003 Wachau
Spicy, lemony fruit on the nose. The palate is quite rich and full
textured in a sweeter style. Sort of dry but there’s lots of
residual sugar here. Lovely and fresh. Very good/excellent 92/100
wines
tasted 02/06
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