New York State (8) Fox Run Vineyards, Finger Lakes

Fox Run Vineyards is one of the leading wineries in the Finger Lakes. Originally a dairy farm on Seneca Lake, the first vineyards were planted here in 1984. The current owner, Scott Osborn, purchased it along with another partner back in 1994, and it now has 50 acres of vineyards, with 19 of those planted to Riesling.

There are five distinct soil types on the property: this would all have been underwater 12 000 years ago, but recession of the lake levels to the current level of Seneca lake has led to deposition of a range of different materials, and the complex geological transitions in the vineyard is something Fox Run are trying to work with.

Peter Bell, winemaker, Fox Run Vineyards

Peter Bell has been winemaker here since 1995. Previously he did five years at Dr Konstantin Frank’s Vinifera Wine Cellars. Production is around 18 000 cases a year.

Fox Run Blanc de Blancs 2013
Large proportion of the base wine is barrel fermented. Powerful with nice creamy hints and lovely citrus and pear fruit. Zippy and lemony but generous and refined too. Some toast and spice. Partial MLF. Lovely stuff. 90/100

Fox Run Doyle Family Chardonnay 2017
Unoaked. Has 9% Traminette in the blend. Delicate, fine and textured with nice pure tangerine and lemon fruit. Nice precision and delicacy with lovely fruit. No lees, no MLF, no oak. Pretty and delicate. 90/100 ($13)

Fox Run Dry Riesling 2016
Nice intensity. Pure and linear with a dry character. Good acidity sitting under the fruit. It’s very lemony, taut and detailed. Has some pithiness. Very pure with sinews and tension. 91/100

Fox Run Dry Riesling 2017
Taut, dry and mineral with nice citrus fruit and a twist of nice reduction. Lemony and expressive with nice finesse. 91-93/100

Fox Run Dry Riesling 2006
Full yellow colour. Toast, honey and spice on the nose, with a lovely palate that’s fresh and citrussy with a bit of creaminess. Very fine and expressive with nice depth. Such a lovely wine. 93/100

Fox Run Dry Riesling 2001
Intense and toasty, with a spicy, honeyed nose and some notes of marmalade. Fresh, detailed and very fine on the palate. There are flavours of citrus, spice and cream. So bright and delicious. 94/100

Fox Run Silvan Vineyard Riesling 2017
Barrel fermented. Supple, light and very fresh with real elegance. Delicate and fine with finesse and purity. A really elegant style. 93/100

Fox Run Lake Dana Vineyard Riesling 2017
62 g/l residual sugar. Lovely sweetness here. Off dry, pure, ripe and sweet with citrus, pear and some melon. Nice weight with well integrated acidity. 90-92/100

Fox Run Lot 11 Riesling Lake Dana Vineyard 2014
Lively and textural with lovely citrus, pear and lemon notes with a touch of mango. Off-dry and pretty with lovely finesse. Has a nice delicacy with some subtle creamy hints. Quite sweet. 92/100

Fox Run Semi Dry Riesling 2017
Very pretty and linear with nice fresh citrus fruit. Lemons, pears, apples and some melon. Has a purity with lovely linear fruit. So primary with lots of potential. 89/100

Fox Run Traminette 2016
Half of its DNA is Gewurztraminer. Very lively and expressive with lots of grape, lychee, pear and mint. Has good acidity. Juicy, floral and intense with a pretty character. A little confected though. 87/100

Fox Run Vineyards Dry Rosé 2017
50% Pinot Noir, 50% Lemberger. Salmon pink/orange in colour. Juicy, lively and bright with citrus, cherry and plum. Lively acidity. Juicy and bright with nice focus. 88/100

Fox Run Hedonia Traminette 2017
Fortified after fermentation. Sweet, intense, warm, fresh and quite exotic. Nice acidity, too. 16% alcohol. Nice stuff. 89/100

Fox Run Lemberger 2016
Juicy and bright with raspberry and red cherry fruit. Juicy and zippy and fresh with a bit of grip. Lively, fresh and spicy. 90/100

Fox Run Lemberger 2017 (sample)
Lovely raspberry fruit with some bright reduction. Fresh, showing spiciness. Vivid and expressive. 90-92/100

Fox Run Lemberger 2017 (Port style)
Sweet, pure and textural with nice sweet berries and cherries. Lively supple texture with some cherry pie notes. 90-92/100

Fox Run Cabernet Sauvignon 2016
Supple, bright and fresh with some blackcurrant fruit. Elegant style with a juicy edge and some grippiness. 90/100

 

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NEW YORK STATE WINE

FINGER LAKES

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