Gantenbein Chardonnay 2014, a stunning wine from Switzerland

This was a real surprise. I was shopping for a bottle for dinner at Berry Bros & Rudd, and Gareth Birchley appears. So I ask for a tip: something serious, mind-blowing, budget £100. His recommendation was this Swiss Chardonnay, which is a remarkable wine.

Gantenbein is a small producer in eastern Switzerland, at the end of the Rhine. Their 6 hectares of vines are planted at 500 m in the foothills of the northern Alps, in the Graubünden (Grisons) appellation. Most is Pinot Noir, but they also have some Chardonnay. 200 cases of this remarkable wine were made in their gravity flow winery.

Gantenbein Chardonnay 2014 Graubünden, Switzerland
Very fine and expressive but also massively concentrated. Powerful with spicy reductive notes alongside perfumed citrus and pear fruit. So intense, with white peach, spice and mineral notes. It’s sort of Burgundian, but also sort of different, and it’s completely compelling. 95/100

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