This is a remarkable wine. It’s made from Zinfandel, which I admit to be a grape variety that I normally avoid. But this is a Zinfandel like no other. Weighing in at just 12.5% alcohol, it has the most amazing perfume and freshness. It’s truly beautiful, and I drank this happily over a couple of evenings. (But don’t worry, dear readers: under normal circumstances, this is the sort of bottle I would sink happily in a single sitting: it’s just so thrillingly drinkable.)

Chris Brockway’s Broc Cellars is an urban winery based in an industrial unit in Berkeley, and he describes his winemaking as ‘low wattage’: reds are made whole cluster, fermentations are natural, very little sulfur dioxide is used, and everything is basket pressed. There’s a really nice article on Chris and his wines by Eric Asimov, here. I am so happy that wines like this are coming out of California.

Broc Cellars Vine Starr Zinfandel 2013 Sonoma County, California
12.5% alcohol. Really detailed, fresh nose of red cherries, violets and fine spices. Juicy, bright, supple palate with a hint of sappy greenness and seductive, sweet liqueur-like red fruits. Superbly fresh and drinkable, with a slightly meaty edge to the vivid fruit. Lovely purity and finesse here. Quite enthralling: the perfumed nose on this wine is so exciting. 94/100 (£25 The Wine Society, Roberson)

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