In late November I popped over to Burgundy for a few days to taste the 2016 vintage in situ. One of the best tastings was at Maison Joseph Drouhin, both because of the quality of the wines but also the depth of the tasting: it was great to taste so many appellations side by side. Veronique Drouhin introduced the wines, and this tasting confirmed that Drouin is one of the best of the negociant houses.
‘2016 was challenging and a bit depressing with the big frost,’ she shared. ‘It was disappointing in terms of quantity.’ The frosts that hit in late April (on the night of the 26/27th) were devastating, but erratic, with some regions spared while others were hit hard. These frosts were followed by difficulties with mildew. ‘Mildew was a problem too,’ says Veronique, ‘even though it’s normally oidium that is the problem.’ However, she reports that the end of the growing season was much easier than the beginning, and harvesting took place in ideal conditions.
‘Since 2010 we have had very small vintages, so the team and the winery is equipped for dealing with small vintages,’ she says. They have a small press, and small fermenters: this year, the Musigny and Amoureuses were fermented in barrels with the ends removed!
Some of these wines are bottled; those that are cask samples have this indicated. As always, don’t take scores too seriously, especially of cask samples where it’s not possible to be so precise.
Joseph Drouhin Mâcon-Bussères Les Clos 2016 Burgundy, France
This is from an interesting site at altitude. One-third is fermented in 500 litre barrels, the rest in stainless steel. It’s lemony, nutty and pure with nice weight. Very fresh. 88/100
Joseph Drouhin Saint-Véran 2016 Burgundy, France
17 partners supply grapes, and some are farming organically. Some in 500 litre barrels, the rest in steel. Tight, lemony and a bit pithy with pure fruit and nice focus. 89/100
Joseph Drouhin Pouilly-Vinzelles 2016 Burgundy, France
One-third fermented in 500 litre barrels. Juicy and lively. Expressive with taut citrus fruit and a hint of nuttiness. Nice concentration. 90/100
Joseph Drouhin Domaine Drouhin Vaudon Chablis Réserve de Vaudon 2016 Burgundy, France
Chablis was hugely affected by hail and frost in 2016. This is lively and lemony with a bit of herb and pith. Taut and focused with a hint of cabbage. 90/100
Joseph Drouhin Domaine Drouhin Vaudon Chablis 1er Cru Vaillons 2016 Burgundy, France
Stony, pure and pithy with linear, focused herb and lemon notes. Very fine. 92/100
Joseph Drouhin Domaine Drouhin Vaudon Chablis 1er Cru Montmains 2016 Burgundy, France
This has almost electric lemony intensity. Very pure, focused and fine. So linear. 94/100
Joseph Drouhin Domaine Drouhin Vaudon Chablis Grand Cru Vaudésir 2016 Burgundy, France
Fermented in old 500 litre barrels. There’s a faint mineral smokiness on the nose. Refined, saline and pure on the palate with lovely depth. Fresh, lemony and pure. Harmonious. 95/100
Joseph Drouhin Domaine Drouhin Vaudon Chablis Grand Cru Les Clos 2016 Burgundy, France
Stony, lemony and concentrated with great precision. Has a taut citrus character and is really stony. Lovely stuff: intense yet refined. 95/100
Joseph Drouhin Rully Blanc 2016 Burgundy, France
Stony and bright with nice purity. Lemony and fine with good texture. Linear and delicious. 92/100
Joseph Drouhin Meursault 2016 Burgundy, France
Juicy and lemony and quite mineral with a hint of pear. Nice focused fruit here with subtle toasty richness. Very well integrated acidity. Refined. 93/100
Joseph Drouhin Chassagne Montrachet 2016 Burgundy, France
Refined with some toast and spice notes. Lemont and pure with some toastiness. Really refined. 93/100
Joseph Drouhin Chassagne-Montrachet 1er Cru Embazées 2016 Burgundy, France
This wasn’t hit by the frost. Refined and linear with lovely lemony fruit and some minerals. Very well integrated acidity. Mineral, linear and refined. 94/100
Joseph Drouhin Chassagne-Montrachet 1er Cru Morgeot ‘Marquis de Laguiche’ 2016 Burgundy, France (cask sample)
This is a wine that Drouhin have been making since 1947. There’s s subtle creamy edge to the mineral/lemony nose. Very refined. The palate is stony and complex with real precision and purity. 95/100
Joseph Drouhin Meursault 1er Cru Perrières 2016 Burgundy, France (cask sample)
Mineral with keen acidity and lovely purity. Stony and dense with good acidity and hints of wax and honey and stones. 94/100
Joseph Drouhin Puligny-Montrachet 2016 Burgundy, France
Very refined with nice taut citrus fruit and hints of peaches and nuts. The acidity is very well integrated. 93/100
Joseph Drouhin Puligny-Montrachet 1er Cru Folatiières 2016 Burgundy, France (cask sample)
Refined, fine and fresh with a nice spicy edge to the brisk citrus fruits. This has some depth and precision, and it’s stony and bright. 94/100
Joseph Drouhin Puligny-Montrachet 1er Cru Clos de la Garenne 2016 Burgundy, France (cask sample)
Linear with some spice and nutty depth to the focused citrus fruits. Has lovely precision and focus. Linear and taut. 93/100
Joseph Drouhin Beaune 1er Cru Clos des Mouches Blanc 2016 Burgundy, France (cask sample)
Drouhin have been making this since 1928. This has depth to it: it’s rich with pears, apples and lemons, and notes of toast and wax. Very powerful and spicy. 94/100
Joseph Drouhin Corton-Chalemagne Grand Cru Propriétés 2016 Burgundy, France (cask sample)
Taut and refined with nice intensity. Concentrated and mineral with fine spices and good acidity. Shows complexity. 94/100
Joseph Drouhin Montrachet Grand Cru Marqui de Laguiche 2016 Burgundy, France (cask sample)
The Puligny side of Montrachet was less affected than the Chassagne side, where yields were down to the point that six producers collaborated to produce a single shared cuvée, made at Domaine Leflaive. This is powerful, intense and mineral with notes of honey and toast. So fine and expressive with taut citrus fruit and some white peach richness. Shows concentration and focus with a long spicy finish. 96/100
Joseph Drouhin Domaine des Hospices de Belleville Morgon 2016 Burgundy, France
The Hospices own 14 hectares in Beaujolais and Drouhin started working with them in 2014. 70% whole cluster. This is juicy with focused red cherries and spice, as well as some vivid raspberry fruit. Fresh with good acidity. 89/100
Joseph Drouhin Domaine des Hospices de Belleville Brouilly 2016 Burgundy, France
100% whole cluster. Sappy with a decayed leaf edge to the floral cherry and berry fruit. Floral and fine with juicy cherries and plums. Vital and floral with spicy structure. 90/100
Joseph Drouhin Domaine des Hospices de Belleville Fleurie 2016 Burgundy, France
60% whole cluster. Fruity and expressive with bright raspberry and cherry fruit, with a bit of stony, savoury structure. Lovely. 90/100
Joseph Drouhin Rully Rouge 2016 Burgundy, France (cask sample)
Very floral and fruity with nice crunchy raspberry fruit and high acidity, as well as a strong cedary edge. Nice freshness. 90/100
Joseph Drouhin Chorey-Les-Beaune 2016 Burgundy, France (cask sample)
10% whole cluster. Very fruity and lively with vigorous cherry and raspberry fruit. Very fresh and well defined. 90/100
Joseph Drouhin Côte de Beaune 2016 Burgundy, France
Juicy and savoury with a stony note and bright, fresh sappy cherry fruit. Very nice definition here with a bit of savouriness. 91/100
Joseph Drouhin Côte de Nuits Villages 2016 Burgundy, France (cask sample)
Linear and taut with stony cedary notes under the fresh raspberry and cherry fruit. 89/100
Joseph Drouhin Savigny-Les-Beaune 2016 Burgundy, France (cask sample)
Nice structure here: grippy and stony with good fruit and some savoury notes. Has focus and presence. 91/100
Joseph Drouhin Savigny-Les-Beaune 1er Cru Fourneaux 2016 Burgundy, France (cask sample)
This has lovely perfume and a fresh, slightly stern structure under the pure fruit. Some substance. 90/100
Joseph Drouhin Chambolle-Musigny 2016 Burgundy, France (cask sample)
10% whole cluster. Fresh but with a bit of spicy depth to the juicy raspberry fruit. There’s some silkiness here and also some flesh. Very pretty. 92/100
Joseph Drouhin Vosne-Romanée 2016 Burgundy, France (cask sample)
Nice density and presence here with juicy raspberry and cherry fruit. Stony with lovely raspberry and red cherry character. Fine. 93/100
Joseph Drouhin Gevrey-Chambertin 2016 Burgundy, France (cask sample)
Each year this has around 25-30% of declassified 1er Cru fruit in it. This has a lovely structure with taut, well defined red fruits. Lots of presence and depth here: expressive. 93/100
Joseph Drouhin Beaune 1er Cru Cras 2016 Burgundy, France (cask sample)
10% whole cluster. Sappy, delicate nose. The palate is fleshy yet a bit green with nice weight. 92/100
Joseph Drouhin Beaune 1er Cru Grèves 2016 Burgundy, France (cask sample)
10% whole cluster. Stony and structured with a backward personality and nice density to the chewy red fruits. 90/100
Joseph Drouhin Beaune 1er Cru Clos des Mouches Rouge 2016 Burgundy, France (cask sample)
10% whole cluster. Beautiful focus with a hint of reduction to the bright raspberry fruit. Lovely concentration and structure with refined fruit and real beauty. Stunning wine. 96/100
Joseph Drouhin Nuits-Saint-Georges 1er Cru Procès 2016 Burgundy, France (cask sample)
10% whole cluster. Intense and vivid with nice density. Stony and smoky with some slightly spicy oak character and some grip. Vivid. 92/100
Joseph Drouhin Chambolle-Musigny Premier Cru 2016 Burgundy, France (cask sample)
15% whole cluster. From seven parcels in the south and north of the appellation. Showing oak on the nose. Dense and vivid with nice acidity and a bit of flesh. Lovely weight. Pretty. 93/100
Joseph Drouhin Chambolle-Musigny 1er Cru Amoureuses 2016 Burgundy, France (cask sample)
60% whole cluster. Fermented in two barrels with their heads removed. Showing a bit of wood but also lovely textured raspberry fruit. Quite linear but has some flesh. 92/100
Joseph Drouhin Gevrey-Chambertin 1er Cru Clos Prieur 2016 Burgundy, France (cask sample)
This is a new wine that’s going to be under long-term contract. Vivid, taut and quite tannic with bold, dense raspberry and cherry fruit. Focused and tightwound. 92/100
Joseph Drouhin Gevrey-Chambertin 1er Cru Cazetiers 2016 Burgundy, France (cask sample)
Very perfumed and showing some toasty oak at the moment. Juicy, fresh and linear with finesse and some flesh as well as freshness. 94/100
Joseph Drouhin Vosne-Romanée 1er Cru 2016 Burgundy, France (cask sample)
Vosne wasn’t hit by frosts in 2016. Fleshy and juicy but also with some structure. Lovely definition here: really refined and expressive with lively raspberry and spice notes. 94/100
Joseph Drouhin Vosne-Romanée 1er Cru Petits Monts 2016 Burgundy, France
Such vivid, fresh, pure raspberry fruit here. Lovely structure and acidity. So pure, refined and linear. 95/100
Joseph Drouhin Clos du Vougeot Grand Cru 2016 Burgundy, France (cask sample)
10% whole cluster. Drouhin own two parcels in this large vineyard, and this is just one of them. The other, in the lower part of the vineyard, is only really good in warm dry vintages, and most years they sell the grapes. Intense and concentrated with structured red berry and cherry fruit. This has firm tannins and nicely integrated structure. 94/100
Joseph Drouhin Grands Echezeaux Grand Cru 2016 Burgundy, France (cask sample)
80% whole cluster. Just 350 litres made! This is beautiful. Concentrated, dense and yet with lovely flesh to the fine red cherries. Nice sweetness to the fruit with good acid and some meaty hints. 95/100
Joseph Drouhin Chambertin Clos de Beze Grand Cru 2016 Burgundy, France (cask sample)
20% whole cluster. Fine, expressive spicy nose with a slight green hint to the bright berry fruits. Silky and fine on the palate. Refined, elegant and pure with lovely structure and finesse. 95/100
Joseph Drouhin Griotte-Chambertin Grand Cru 2016 Burgundy, France (cask sample)
80% whole cluster. Supple, fine, taut and refined with well defined cherry and berry fruits. Some black cherry depth. Has a lovely autumnal richness on the finish. Ripe and refined with such purity. 96/100
Joseph Drouhin Musigny Grand Cru 2016 Burgundy, France (cask sample)
30% whole cluster. Concentrated but very refined with dense sweet black cherry and plum fruit. Lovely fine spiciness here. Intense and appealing with good acidity and precise structure. 96/100
These wines will be released from March-September 2018, with most coming out in May.
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