jamie goode's wine blog: Two Furmints: Slovenia and Hungary

Monday, May 19, 2008

Two Furmints: Slovenia and Hungary

Furmint is a grape variety that's relatively new to me. It's the classic variety of Hungary's Tokaji region, where it makes the fabulous sweet Tokaji wines. But it also makes dry wines here, too. By coincidence, I had two Furmints in my sample rack, one from Hungary and one from Slovenia. So I thought I'd try them together. They both show a family resemblence, but also some differences. I was really thrilled by the Slovenian wine, which reminded me of a very good drier style of Gruner Veltliner. The Hungarian Furmint is possibly a little more complex, and also has a hint of Austria about it, but it's perhaps more of an acquired taste.

Aside: I reckon the vineyards of central Europe have staggering potential for making serious, interesting wines, with a combination of good sites and unusual grape varieties.

Verus Vineyards Furmint 2007 Slovenia
(Alternative name: Verus Stajerska Slovenia Kakovostino Vino ZGP Šipon 2007, where Šipon is a synonym for Furmint.) Beautifully packaged, this is a really stylish wine that reminds me a bit of Austrian Gruner Veltliner. It has a lively, fruity, almost peppery nose with some grapey depth to it. The palate is really lively and fresh, with an exuberant fruity, spicy character and a hint of spritz on the bright, acidic finish. This is a very pure, clean, minerally white that's full flavoured but zippy, and would be a versatile food wine. I like this a lot. 12% alcohol. (See www.verusvino.com for more details). 90/100 (£7.99 http://www.therealwineco.co.uk/)

Disznók? Tokaji Dry Furmint 2006 Hungary
The ancient variety of the Tokaji region makes dry whites like this, as well as the legendary sweet Tokaji. This has a broad, rich, deep nose with a smoky, spicy edge to the melon and herb fruit. The palate is quite complex with a fresh minerally character underpinning broad, grapey, slightly spicy fruit. There’s lots of interest here: a really food friendly style with a lot of personality. Beguiling stuff. 91/100 (£9.19 rrp, contact fionacampbell@btopenworld.com for more information)

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At 8:27 PM, Anonymous James Eugene said...

>Furmint is a grape variety that's relatively new to me.

What do you mean by 'relatively'? Any previous experiences with Furmint?

At 9:06 AM, Anonymous Anonymous said...

Two months ago me and my friends tried their Furmint and Sauvignon. One friend of mine who's traveled around Europe brought wines from Slovenia. He sad that Slovenia is really small and beautiful green country. Both wines we've tried are beautifully made with precise varietal expressions. Their Sauvignon reminds me on New Zealand's Sauvignon (Vila Maria or Cloudy Bay - also great white wines :-). VERUS Furmint has completely new dimension in taste for me. It has something sexy. I can't explaine. Buy it if you can and drink it with your best friends, or alone :-).

And I didn't surprissed when I saw their wine as a recomendation as wine of the week on Jancis Robinsons webpage. She sad that VERUS is an exciting new producer on world wine market. I agree with her.


At 9:18 AM, Anonymous Anonymous said...

Dear James and everybody who'll reading this article. The wine is not VERSUS is VERUS. I finally found them on the correct web adress: www.verusvino.com
Website is under construction :-(

At 10:51 PM, Blogger Jamie said...

James, yes, but only fleeting.

anon, thanks - this is now corrected

At 1:05 PM, Blogger bi said...


this is a great blog. I like it.

I agree with all what did you say. VERUS wines are great. Verus boys - winemakers are great too. I know them and I'm proud of them.

All the best and best wishes from Slovenia.


At 4:58 PM, Anonymous Anonymous said...

I had chance to try Verus Furmint today, and it was really nice found.

At 2:23 PM, Anonymous Uvetta said...

Hello everyone, by chance I tried Verus Furmint a few days ago and I found it surprisingly fresh and mineral in aromas and very clean in taste, really outstanding of a good job made both in vineyards and cellar. Also other Verus wines such as Sauvignon anf Riesling are very good and i higly recommend them.
It's funny that I have visited Diznoko cellar last year in Tokaj, so when I happened to read this article I was quite surprised of comparison. I didn't taste their furmint anyway, but some other sweet and dry prouduction. If you know some italian youi can read something about my visit in Tokaj at this adress http://www.vinix.it/myDocDetail.php?ID=780
Many thanks and best regards from Italy


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