jamie goode's wine blog: Slovenian Sauvignon

Thursday, January 11, 2007

Slovenian Sauvignon

Must say a little more about the Simcic Sauvignon Reserve 2004 from Slovenia. It's Sauvignon, but not as you know it. The grapes are harvested relatively late and then, rather than press the juice off straight away or after just a short skin contact, as is normal for whites, the skins are given an extended maceration of about a week. This results in a deep coloured wine with some of the characteristics of a red wine: a bit of tannin and bold, herb-tinged flavours. There's sweet, grapey, melony fruit here, together with a bit of grassy herbal character. It's distinctive, warm and intense. I wouldn't say it's profound - after all, this is Sauvignon, and it lacks true complexity or minerality. Also, I could understand some people writing this off as clumsy. But I like it because it is interesting and it makes me think about what I'm tasting. It's available in the UK from H&H Bancroft, who have just taken Simcic on, but isn't yet on their website.

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At 11:00 PM, Blogger David said...

Hi Jamie,

I recall "Wine finds", a company now sadly defunct I thin, importing Ed Simic's stuff in the mid to late 90's and intreresting stuff it is too. Their Bdx blends are are simple but really rather good I thought after a few years in bottle (4-5)


At 11:53 PM, Anonymous Anonymous said...

Sounds interesting but looks naf!
In which century do slovenian graphic designers reside?

At 4:59 AM, Blogger Marcus g58 said...

Interesting. Not at all in the style of the Movia Tocai that's more widely available in N America.

Thanks for mentioning where we can find it.

At 7:53 AM, Blogger Mike Tommasi said...

Hi Jamie

I go to Slovenia every 2 months or so for business so I have had a fair sampling of the excellent local produce...

This wine is by Marjan and Salko Sim?i?, note this is a common surname and there are other Sim?i? winemakers.

My personal favourite is Edi Sim?i?, with his son Aleks he makes some of the most interesting wines in Slovenia IMHO...

keep up the excellent work


At 9:25 AM, Anonymous Doug said...

If you are after wines in the Slovenian style try the more readily available examples from Gorizia (Friuli) or Carso. Some of the vineyards even straddle the notional border. Princic Dario makes a deliciously resonant Sauvignon, quite amber, from prolonged skin contact as well an exceptional three way blend of Chardonnay, Pinot Grigio and Sauvignon which contrives to be pretty and robust at the same time. Zidarich and others in Carso use the native Slovenian Vitovska grape to make delicious wines with thrilling acidity. Reds are made from Terrano, a variant of Refosco, and are customarily 11.5-12% abv or Schiopettino. Most growers, and they are all fairly small, work biodynamically, with minimal and even no added sulphur, and absolutely no filtration, which is why the whites are often cloudy. The most intellectually challenging wines are the amphora-aged ones of Gravner - even for my "wired-for-weird" palate they are OTT.

At 3:51 PM, Blogger EVWG said...

This wine sounds quite interesting. It seems that in NYC only the pinot grigio and chardonnay are available but I am on the lookout for this one. I really enjoy trying wines that have a unique edge to them. It doesn't always turn out positively but it is always fun. Thanks for peaking the interest of this wine geek.


At 6:14 PM, Blogger FiloBianco said...

The style in which Simic is crafted is fairly common across the Slovenian border. Josko Gravner and Radikon are arguably the best producers on the Italian side.

After a few years there is still a lot of debate amongst wine nutzo if these wines are oxidized and crap (mostly from people who got tired) and those who favor the different aromatics arising from this technique. What I know is that Gravner since his 2001 vintage has been using this technique couple with some terracotta jars and wine come out rather clean and polished yet lening onto the kind of Simic style. I think it's a good compromise after all...


PS. Good to see you Mr Mike Tommasi... Sono Filippo e scrivevamo su IHV...

PPS. Sierra Nevada ? My favorite when back in SanFran. You should try their Special/Limited Editions though...

At 9:01 PM, Anonymous Anonymous said...

I was in Slovenia and was lucky enough to turn up at Simcic just as a Swiss wine merchant was tasting his was through the whole range, and they invited me to pull up a chair.

I actually preferred the cheaper ones - I thought the top-end ones were trying too hard. But the Chardonnay and the Tokaji (dry) were brilliant IMO.

Half the vineyards are over the Italian border if I remember rightly.

At 10:50 PM, Anonymous Kevin said...

Simcic has been taking Decanter medals over the last 3 years. Gold for Vino Passito Leonardo in half bottle. Also Teodor is tops.
This year the JAKONCIC Carolina White has topped them all with a Decanter Trophy, several of my friend have tried it and its fabulous. Try latevintage.co.uk

At 8:09 AM, Anonymous <a href="http://buy-levitra--ooz.blogspot.com">Levitra</a> said...

:-) ochen\' zaebatyj blog!

At 7:16 AM, Blogger Vladimir said...

Hi Jamie

Marjan Simcic is very charismatic, one might even say different, just like his wines.
A few years ago I took a photo of him and his wife Valerija, just when they were bottling into Double Magnums. The link is
www.latevintage.com then RED then TEODOR RED RESERVE DOUBLE MAGNUM (click on bottle to see their photo)


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