Steve Webber of De Bortoli was one of the many interesting people I met in the Yarra Valley, earlier this year. He's genuinely passionate about what he does, he loves wine, and he's prepared to experiment. Note the chalked inscription on the barrel to his right. There was another labelled 'Cornas', which may have been the best Aussie Syrah I've yet tasted. Whatever people say about overproduction, Aussie wine is thriving at the high end because of winegrowers like Steve who are trying to push the boundaries a bit.