'I have been fortunate to secure fruit from 140 year old vines in perhaps the best vintage on record', says winemaker Tim Burvill. 'What an irresistable opportunity!' The result is the Rockbare Barossa Babe Shiraz 2002, which at an RRP of £14.99 is actually fantastic value for money. It's a dark, intense wine with the oak providing spicy structure to the ripe, pure, sweet black fruits. There's plenty of complexity here, though, and with time the oak seems to merge seamlessly into the entirity of the wine, as if swallowed by its dark, intense core. The 15.5% alcohol is noticeable (how do you hide this?) but in the context of the wine it is almost hidden. This is the traditional Barossa style at its best, and if you are in the mood for it, it's great. (UK agent Boutinot. Availability Andrew Chapman www.surf4wine.co.uk; D Byrne; Bacchanalia.)