jamie goode's wine blog

Saturday, February 11, 2006

A couple of Eastern Europeans last night. A decade or more ago Eastern European wines were supposed to be the next big thing – with the collapse of communism and the emergence of free market economies, the latent potential of wine industries such as those of Bulgaria, Hungary and Romania would surely be realized. For one reason and another, this hasn’t really happened. But there’s no reason it shouldn’t. On wineanorak last week I reported on some lovely, personality-filled wines from Georgia. Last night’s couple were from Romania and Hungary. Vale Duná Merlot Burgund Mare NV, Vile Oltului, Romania is a beautifully packaged wine (pictured), sealed with a screwcap (saranex-only liner, for those who know about these things). A pale red colour, it’s bright and fruity with an undergrowthy, herby edge. It tastes like a light, expressive new world Pinot Noir. Very pleasant, well balanced and easy drinking. Monte Cappella Cabernet Kéfrankos 2004 Nagyréde, Hungary is also nicely packaged and sealed with a screwcap (tin–saran liner). This is more overtly fruity, and perhaps a little simpler. It’s clean with sappy cherryish fruit, and a touch of pepperiness on the finish – enjoyable, like a good Beaujolais. Refreshingly, this is just 12% alcohol. Neither is spectacular, but they are good, honest, un-forced drinking wines. Available in the UK at Morrisons (sorry, don’t have the price to hand, but it won’t be much).


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