![\"benjamin](\"http:\/\/www.wineanorak.com:\/wineblog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/09\/P9272264-500x333.jpg\")
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It was my first time in Nova Scotia. This is on the Atlantic coast of \u00a0Canada, and it\u2019s the youngest of Canada\u2019s cool climate wine regions. I was here to visit Benjamin Bridge, the sparkling wine producer that\u2019s making waves, and has the reputation of being Canada\u2019s finest sparkling winery.<\/p>\n
I was travelling with three sommeliers from Toronoto: Krysta Oben, Jay Whitely and Jake Skakun, and our merry tour guide was Nicole Campbell of Lifford, who represent Benjamin Bridge in Canada.<\/p>\n
Our first evening was spent exploring Halifax, in the company of Chris Campbell and Jean Benoit Deslauriers, the winemaking team of Benjamin Bridge. We began in the Stillwell Beer Garden, which is a lovely outdoor space, and then progressed for some dinner at Little Oak, which has a really good wine list. Gimonnet\u2019s Cuis went down well, as did a Tempier Bandol Ros\u00e9 and the Lapierre Morgon 2015. We then headed off to Obladee, Heather Rankin\u2019s place, which also has a really good wine list and some nice beer. Overnight was in the lovey, grand Lord Nelson hotel.<\/p>\n
Then it was off to the Gaspereau Valley, about an hour\u2019s drive. This is where Benjamin Bridge is located, and it has a unique microclimate that enables Vitis vinifera to ripen perfectly to create sparkling base wines.<\/p>\n The valley looks pretty stunning, although we had a day of solid, heavy rain for our visit. This was welcomed, though, because the previous few months had been really dry, and the vines needed this extra drink to set themselves up for the last push to ripeness.<\/p>\n Harvest was underway for some of the hybrids, such as L\u2019Acadie Blanc. Until recently hybrids were the rule here, because the cool climate and winter low temperatures make growing vinifera varieties properly marginal.<\/p>\n Benjamin Bridge is the vision of Gerry McConnell. He has an interesting story. Growing up in a humble background in Halifax, Nova Scotia, he worked hard to put himself through law school, getting a scholarship. When he began practising law in the 1970s he saw that a lot of large companies had moved manufacturing plants to Nova Scotia because of the lack of labour laws, which meant that they could save money by exploiting the workers. So his focus was on labour law and he helped unionise the work force and campaign for better rights for the exploited workforce. Then he decided to go into business, and saw an opportunity for gold mining. His NovaGold operation became huge, and he sold it, remaining on the board.<\/p>\n In the late 1990s he and his wife were looking for the next thing and they witnessed the Gasperau vineyards being established. \u2018I was captivated by the symmetry of the vines,\u2019 he recalls, \u2018so we thought we should find a place here.\u2019 He identified what is now Benjamin Bridge as probably the best farm in the valley, but it took some manoeuvring to persuade the owners to sell. Many of the family farms here have been in the same hands for many generations, and so people are reluctant to be the ones who broke the chain by selling. In the end, Gerry convinced the Westcotts to sell by offering to allow Chris Westcott to stay on as vineyard manager. \u2018He takes tremendous pride in seeing what we\u2019ve done.\u2019<\/p>\n When the current batch of plantings is complete, there will be close to 90 acres under vine here. Scott Savoy, the viticulturist here came on board in 2015 and he\u2019s been looking to remodel the vineyards, planting at a higher density and getting each vine to do less work, moving from 3 kg per vine to 1.5 kg.<\/p>\n \u2018This was an experiment,\u2019 says Gerry. His view was that if he couldn\u2019t make internationally acclaimed wines, he\u2019d abort the project. So he looked to hire the best consultants he could. He began with Peter Gamble and Ann Sperling, who had a lot of experience (and are still involved in the project), but they didn\u2019t have experience with sparkling wine. So when they recommended to Gerry that there was potential here for world class sparkling, Gerry realized he\u2019d have to find a consultant from Champagne to supplement this team. He spoke with Tom Stevenson, one of the world\u2019s top Champagne writers, who gave him a short list of three names. Top of the list was Rapha\u00ebl Brisbois of Piper Heidsieck, who initially was a terrible sceptic. He eventually joined when Gerry convinced him that there\u2019s be no risk to his reputation. Brisbois oversaw the development of sparkling wines here, and loved coming to Nova Scotia, and getting his hands dirty. Sadly, in 2013 he was diagnosed with cancer and died a month later. \u2018But his legacy is here,\u2019 says Gerry. The new hire as consultant is Pascal Agrapart, who has just begun working with Benjamin Bridge. \u2018Pascal is absolutely connected to the vineyard,\u2019 says Gerry. \u2018We\u2019re looking forward to receiving some good advice.\u2019<\/p>\n The advantage of this region is the final stages of ripening taking place in very cool conditions. \u2018The proximity to the bay stretches the growing season,\u2019 says Jean Benoit \u2018It allows us to pick at low sugar and high acidity two-and-a-half months after they pick for sparkling wine in Sonoma.\u2019 [He was working in Sonoma before he was hired here.] A typical vintage here for vinifera would be first week of November, while Sonoma would begin in the second week in July. \u2018It\u2019s the foundation of everything,\u2019 says Jean Benoit. \u2018Phenolic maturity that\u2019s through the roof with modest sugar and acidity unspoiled. There\u2019s no substitute for time when it comes to skin and seed ripeness.\u2019<\/p>\n The typical analysis here would be 10.5% potential alcohol (18 Brix), pH of 3 and 9.5 g\/litre acidity, but with brown seeds and a tremendous amount of phenolic ripeness. \u2018It\u2019s the gateway stylistically for doing what great traditional method sparklings are supposed to do. It allows freshness and richness to emerge at an elevated level but not one at the expense of the other.\u2019<\/p>\n \u2018There will always be a foundation of freshness in these wines,\u2019 says Jean Benoit. \u2018We always have electricity and tension, but not all the wines have a richness. We have to work at getting inherent richness from within, rather than relying on hefty dosage.\u2019<\/p>\n \u2018When you scratch and claw your way to ripeness and get there at the 11th hour, that\u2019s the territory for greatness,\u2019 declares Jean Benoit. Chris Campbell adds, \u2018you are still pushing for it at the very end, and that\u2019s where the magic happens.\u2019<\/p>\n There are perils here, chief of which is winter cold. \u2018Twice we\u2019ve seen -24 C,\u2019 says Scott. \u2018This is the challenge for bringing vinifera to fruition.\u2019 To this end they hill up the graft union in the winter, as this is the most vulnerable part of the vine. In good winters they\u2019ll have snow deep enough to help protect against the lows, too. But vine balance is critical in helping the vines go dormant at the end of the season. Another challenge is downy mildew, but again, balanced vines with well adjusted crop loads seem to be much more resistant to this.<\/p>\n The wines? They\u2019re quite lovely. There\u2019s a precision and freshness here, but it\u2019s allied to real depth of flavour.<\/p>\n Benjamin Bridge Brut 2008 Nova Scotia, Canada<\/strong> Benjamin Bridge Blanc de Blancs 2009 Nova Scotia, Canada<\/strong> Benjamin Bridge Brut Reserve 2008 Nova Scotia, Canada<\/strong> Benjamin Bridge Ros\u00e9 2011 Nova Scotia, Canada<\/strong> Benjamin Bridge Ros\u00e9 2012 Nova Scotia, Canada<\/strong> Benjamin Bridge Brut NV Nova Scotia, Canada<\/strong> Benjamin Bridge Blanc de Blancs 2004 Nova Scotia, Canada<\/strong>![\"New](\"http:\/\/www.wineanorak.com:\/wineblog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/09\/IMG_2905-500x300.jpg\")
![\"Gerry](\"http:\/\/www.wineanorak.com:\/wineblog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/09\/P9272258-500x333.jpg\")
![\"Jean-Benoit](\"http:\/\/www.wineanorak.com:\/wineblog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/09\/P9272259-500x333.jpg\")
![\"Pinot](\"http:\/\/www.wineanorak.com:\/wineblog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/09\/P9272286-500x333.jpg\")
![\"L'Acadie](\"http:\/\/www.wineanorak.com:\/wineblog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2016\/09\/P9272289-500x333.jpg\")
\nThis was the last traditional method sparkling Benjamin Bridge made containing hybrid varieties. It\u2019s 10% each of Chardonnay and Pinot Noir with 80% L\u2019Acadie and Vidal. There\u2019s a beautiful balance here, with ripe pear and white peach fruit, a bit of richness but a lot of fresh acidity. There are also hints of apples and honey, with linearity and finesse. 91\/100<\/p>\n
\nThis small production wine was made from a vineyard with limestone soils in Bear River. So linear and focused with lovely reductive hints, some mineral notes and lovely precision. Lemon and subtle toast notes, showing amazing precision and finesse. 93\/100<\/p>\n
\n60% Chardonnay, 40% Pinot Noir, low yields of 0.8 kg per vine and a dry extract twice the level of Dom Perignon. Concentrated and intense with real power. Tightwound citrus fruits with some pithy notes and well integrated acidity. Intense, pure, lemony and focused with amazing intensity. Has a really long finish. 94\/100<\/p>\n
\n43% Pinot Meunier, 42% Pinot Noir, 15% Chardonnay. Lively, linear and bright with fresh raspberry and cherry notes. Lovely supple green herbiness, showing nice freshness and focus. 91\/100<\/p>\n
\n70% Chardonnay, 30% Pinot Noir. Nice purity with lively, pithy, bright fruit. Cherry and plum notes. Fresh and vivid with lemony acidity. Fine, delicate and pure. 92\/100<\/p>\n
\nThis is a blend of hybrid and vinifera varieties, with 2010 as the base. Very fresh, linear and fruity. Direct and lemony with nice fruit quality and a bit pf pithiness. 90\/100<\/p>\n
\nThis was the wine that caused the world to sit up and take notes of Benjamin Bridge. It\u2019s from Dr Al McIntyre\u2019s Kingsport property. There\u2019s a bit of toasty development, but it\u2019s still pretty youthful with nice lemony fruit. Really linear and rounded with a faint (nice) hint of cheese, and some ripe apple notes. 92\/100<\/p>\n