![\"jean](\"http:\/\/www.wineanorak.com:\/wineblog\/wp-content\/uploads\/2014\/12\/jean-paul-brun-500x333.jpg\")
<\/p>\n<\/p>\n
Gamay. A variety that I’m growing to love. I remember Kermit Lynch memorably describing Beaujolais as ‘the one night stand of wines.’ His point: not every wine has to be serious. Not every wine drinking experience needs to be a great one. I’m sure there are points chasers out there who set themselves a threshold score: ‘no wine rated lower than 92 shall pass my lips!’ But this is to fail to understand what wine is about.<\/p>\n
Gamay doesn’t make the sorts of wines that score in the mid-90s with the major critics. This says something about Gamay, but it says something about the critics, too. For me, Gamay can be profound. It can make wines that thrill and enchant. Wines that draw you in with their prettiness, but then compel you to stay as you realize there’s substance and complexity to them. They can have layers. If you just care to look, you find them.<\/p>\n
Of course, not all Gamay is interesting. Most is fairly dull. But this applies to any grape variety. When it’s good, though, it’s very good, and Gamay’s time is coming soon. There’s more great Gamay around than ever. The natural wine movement has really helped, because this is a variety that seems to respond well to a natural approach. Tonight I’m drinking a lovely Gamay.<\/p>\n
Jean-Paul Brun\u00a0Terres Dor\u00e9es C\u00f4te de Brouilly\u00a02013 Beaujolais, France<\/strong>
\n12.5% alcohol. Wild ferment, very low sulfur dioxide levels. Wonderful nose of floral red cherry fruit with a sappy, herby edge and some sweet raspberry notes. Lovely perfume. The palate is very fresh with pure, grippy raspberry fruit. Nice freshness and detail. Incredibly drinkable with no excess weight: lean and pure. 92\/100 (\u00a312.80 Savage Selection)<\/p>\n