Normally, I find it hard to get too excited about Muscadet. But I’m beginning to change my mind. On a recent trip to Canada I tried a Melon de Bourgogne (the Muscadet variety) from Malivoire, and it was really interesting. It reminded me straight away of good Muscadet in its flavour profile. And this wine, which is an expression of an individual terroir, is just brilliant. Maybe we need to start taking Melon and Muscadet more seriously. I good growers got more money for their wines, meybe they’d be able to make the investments needed to produce more interesting wines. This is a single site wine from Vincent Caillé, and it’s really good. UK agent is Carte Blanche.
Le Clos de la Févrie Muscadet Sevre et Maine Sur Lie 2013 Loire, France
12% alcohol. Powerful, lively and almost exotic with a very stony, mineral character as well as fresh apple and pear fruit with some citrus freshness. Lovely acidity here with a refreshing yet complex personality. Such a vital wine which seems to capture the essence of the Melon grape variety. 92/100
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