I had these lovely grower Champagnes in a wine bar in Reims (the excellent Au Bon Manger, 7 Rue Courmeaux). Anyone who thinks of Champagne merely in terms of the Grand Marques needs to think again. Anyone who doesn’t think Champagne is a terroir wine needs to think again. I need to go back, soon.
Champagne Emmanuel Brochet Le Mont Benoit NV France
40% Pinot Meunier, 40% Chardonnay, 20% Pinot Noir. Salty, tangy and intense with lovely citrus and herb notes. Finesse here with a lovely lemony finish. 93/100
Champagne Charlot-Tanneux Blanc de Blancs Cuvée Elia NV France
From Mardeuil, this is 12.7% alcohol and has 7 g/l dosage. It’s based on the 2006 harvest ad is from a premier cru vineyard, selection massale vines, fermented with wild yeast in small oak, no malolactic. 1900 bottles made, disgorged January 2015. Very pure and fine with some sweetness to the citrus fruit, with depth. Quite linear, though. Fine acidity and a lovely mellow crystalline core. Slightly honeyed, but quite mineral too. 93/100
Champagne David Léclapart l’Amateur 1er Cru Blanc de Blancs Pas Dosé NV France
Very fine, fresh, textured and mineral with fine pear and citrus fruit. So pure and linear with notes of anise and a nice savoury edge. Focused and poised. 94/100
Champagne Augustin Cuvée CCC1 Element Feu Cuvée 301 1er Cru NV France
Disgorged 17/05/15. 8.6 g/l dosage, 12% alcohol. Bold, rich and toasty. Very smooth and intense with lovely richness. Great depth here with sweet toasty notes dominating. Rich pear and peach fruit. Powerful and appealing. 90/100
Champagne Chevreux-Bournazel La Parcelle NV France
This spends 11 months in oak, 11.7% alcohol. This has an interesting story. A couple used to work in a steeply sloped vineyard and the owner decided to sell it. He asked them if they wanted to buy it but they had no money. They went to Vincent Charlot-Tanneaux, and he helped them. They now make 650 bottles from this plot. It’s very tight and fresh, linear and mineral, with fresh citrus and pear fruit, lovely lemony acidity and nice spiciness. 92/100
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GROWER CHAMPAGNE:
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- Agrapart Avizoise Extra Brut Grand Cru 2008
- Gimonnet Blanc de Blancs Cuvee Cuis 1er Cru NV
- Vimart et Cie Grand Cellier NV
- Gatinois Aÿ Grand Cru Brut Tradition NV
- Michel Arnould Grand Cru Brut Réserve NV
- Ulysse Collin Blanc de Noirs Les Maillons Extra Brut NV France
- Eric Rodez Blanc de Noirs NV
- Pierre Péters Cuvée du Réserve Blanc de Blancs Brut Grand Cru NV France
- R&L Legras Blanc de Blancs Grand Cru NV
- Bérêche et Fils Campania Remensis Extra Brut Rosé NV
- Savart L’Ouverture Premier Cru NV
- Raphaël & Vincent Bérêche Montagne Premier Cru 2004
- Savart L’Accomplie 1er Cru NV
- Vilmart et Cie Grand Cellier d’Or Premier Cru 2010
- Champagne Marie-Noëlle Ledru Grand Cru NV
- Champagne Pierre Péters Rosé for Albane
- Christmas Grower Champagne: Legras Presidence 2007, Savart L’Ouverture and Selosse Initial
- Gimonnet Cuvée Fleuron 2006
- Gimonnet Oenophile 2005
- Selosse Initial NV
- Léclapart, Charlot-Tanneux, Emmanuel Brochet, Chevreaux-Bournazel
- The wines of A Levasseur, Marne
- Vilmart et Cie Grande Reserve Premier Cru
- Chartogne-Taillet Sainte Anne NV
- Marguet ‘Shaman’ 12 Grand Cru
- Egly-Ouriet Brut Tradition Grand Cru NV
- Vouette & Sorbée Brut Nature Fidèle NV
- Marie Noelle Ledru Grand Cru 2009
- Roses de Jeanne Côte de Val Vilaine Blanc de Noirs
- Larmandier-Bernier Latitude Blanc de Blancs
1 Comment on Grower Champagne Focus: Léclapart, Charlot-Tanneux, Emmanuel Brochet, Chevreaux-Bournazel
Not that I drink a lot of Champagne, but when I do, it’s anything except the Grands Marques. Before I spent a week in the Aube many years ago, I really didn’t know anything about grower Champagne. But there, I think pretty much all Champagne is grower Champagne. And what we had was very good.