A
weekend in Porto... continued
I
recently spent a weekend in Porto with Douro winemaker Dirk Niepoort.
A number of us were gathered to celebrate his 40th, and for most
of us the wines we had over these three days represented the best part
of a year's worth of drinking experiences all crammed into a weekend.
I took notes on almost everything, and I'm reproducing them here for
the sake of the record.
Part 1, Friday can
be found here, and part 2, Saturday here.
Part 3, Sunday lunch is here.
After
lunch, John Crook and I decided to wander the streets of Porto, giving
Dirk some space before we descended on him for dinner, along with
Swiss winewriter Chandra Kurt. It was a nice, low key event where we
enjoyed Dirk's superb cooking with an unusual but lovely selection of
wines.
Rudi
Pichler Grüner Veltliner 2002 Wachau, Austria
Fresh and minerally with good acid and a subtle, peppery spicy
edge. Very fresh. Very good+ 89/100
Dr Loosen
Wehlener Sonnenuhr Riesling Auslese 1998 Mosel Saar Ruwer, Germany
Very fresh limey, piercing nose with a broad palate that displays
rich fruit. The finish is quite spicy. Very appealing. Very
good/excellent 92/100
Buçaco Tinto
Reserva 1985 Beiras, Portugal
This famous wine (pictured right) comes from the Palace Hotel do
Buçaco, and is a traditional and extremely long-lived blend of
Bairrada and Dão that is only available to guests dining at the hotel
restaurant. But Dirk has some. I was served this blind by John Crook,
who spotted it in Dirk's cellar, and these are the notes I wrote:
Distinctive, herby, rich spicy nose, savoury and quite evolved. The
palate is savoury - very earthy and leathery. Good concentration. It's
like a Chateauneuf du Pape with quite a bit of age. Very
good/excellent 91/100
Domaine Gramenon
2001 Côtes du Rhône
Very unusual sweet, rounded, spicy herby nose with some pronounced
animal notes. The palate is ripe, rich, spicy and intense. On one
level it's quite delicious, but on another it's a bit flawed. Am I
making sense? Very good+ 88/100
Dado 2000 Beiras,
Portugal
Dado is an unusual cross-appellation project. It's a collaboration
between Dirk and Alvaro Castro of the Dão, and is a couple of barrels
of Dão (old vine fruit from Quinta de Saes) wine mixed with a couple
of Douro, hence Dado. Dirk was keen to replicate an old style of wine
that used to be blended in this way some years ago, and 2000 is the
first vintage. It is deep coloured, displaying a nose of spicy fruit
with a hint of vanilla. The palate is savoury, chewy, tannic and
spicy, with smooth yet firm structure. Quite tight now but lovely
fruit quality. Good acidity is the key here. 2001, which I have since
tasted, is quite different. Very good/excellent 92/100
Gomes Madeira
Bual 1860
This was served blind. Very unusual waxy, coconutty nose with a
rubbery edge. Powerful palate with lots of savoury, intense flavours,
high acidity and a spicy, slightly raisined finish. Very complex with
a dry finish, although it's slightly odd. 'It's a '60', says Dirk, and
then he adds 'that's 1860'. Very good/excellent 92/100
The next wine is a
bit of an oddity, from Dirk's birth year of 1964. Sweet, rich, spicy
and soft with woody richness, it's 1964 Vino Liquoroso Rosso from
Ansaldo Sciactrac, which is all I know about this sweet Italian wine.
Back to the 19th century for the final wine, which was very special,
and garners the joint highest rating I've given to a wine ever.
Unfortunately, though, I could only decipher some of the name of the
producer. Great Madeira is unique among wines in that it really
does need about a century to reach its peak!
JR Tiex..... 1863
Bual Madeira
This wine was purchased in demijohn by Alex Lidell, who then bottled
it. It's been in bottle for around 10 years. Lovely expressive
nose with high acidity, and intense herby, waxy notes. Very clean for
such an old wine. The palate is lovely and spicy, rich complex and
firm, with some raisin and spice notes. High acidity and amazing
length, a truly brilliant wine. Excellent 97/100
see
also: weekend in Porto part 1, part
2, part 3 and Dinner with Dirk Niepoort 1
and 2.
Back to top
|