There's no reason why Hungary shouldn't be producing world class wines, but at the moment its reputation for fine wine rests squarely on the shoulders of just one area -- Tokaji. But if the efforts of Vylyan are anything to go by, the perception of Hungarian wines abroad could soon be about to change. This ambitious premium-level producer is located in the Villány region in the extreme south of the country, on the border with Croatia. The 130 ha estate has 55 ha under vine, and a range of native and 'international' grape varieties have been put to good effect to produce a very stylish line-up of wines. I was particularly struck by the complex, Burgundian Pinot Noir, and the impressive renditions of local red varieties Kekoporto and Zwiegelt. Currently, Vylyan are still looking for a UK agent and I don't know their proposed retail prices.

Chardonnay 2000
This is a light, fresh wine with some spiciness on the palate, and a lean, savoury character. Well balanced. Very good

Kekoporto 1999
A very attractive brightly fruited red wine. The nose shows cherry fruit with a distinctive herby edge. The palate is herby and cheesy, with a lovely savoury character. Interesting stuff from this indigenous variety. Very good+

Pinot Noir 1999
A lovely Burgundian style Pinot Noir (I know it's a cliché to say this, but it really is true in this case). The varietally true nose shows smoky, herby cherry fruit with a cheesy edge. The palate shows good concentration and wonderful savoury complexity. Very good/excellent

Zweigelt 1999
Distinctive bright red purple colour. The slightly muted nose has a spicy undertone, and the palate shows soft, rich fruit with a peppery edge. There's good concentration and a bit of tannin lurking underneath the soft fruit. Very good+

Merlot 1999
Very dense purple/red colour. This is a classy interpretation of Merlot but suffers a little from being a bit 'international' and anonymous. It's thick, lush and concentrated with some tannic structure and a bit of spiciness from the wood ageing. Very good+