Vignobles Brunier, BP5, 84370
Bédarrides, France
Phone: +33 (0)4 90 33 00 31 Fax: +33 (0)4 90 33 18 47
One of the famous names of Chateuneuf du Pape, the Vieux
Télégraphe estate consists of some 70 ha of vines, with 65 ha of red
grapes (60% Grenache, 15% Syrah, 15% Mourvèdre, 10% others) and 5 ha
of white (30% Grenache Blanc, 40% Clairette, 15% Rousanne, 15%
Bourboulenc). The Bruniers actually own three estates, and tend to
show these together, as Daniel Brunier did here. The second estate is
also in Châteauneuf, La Roquette, and is a very good performer in its
own right -- people sometimes mistakenly think this is a second label.
The third estate is a recent addition to the portfolio: in 1998 they
acquired one of the most traditional and well situated estates in
Gigondas, Domaine Les Pallières. Although the Bruniers vinified the
1998 vintage, the 1999 tasted here was the first vintage for which
they had complete control of both the viticulture and the winemaking.
It will be interesting to see what happens here in the next few years.
Le Pigeoulet Rouge 2000, Vin de Pays de Vacluse
Nicely packaged. Bright red/purple with an attractive nose of slightly
herby, spicy red berry fruit. Delicious medium-bodied meaty/savoury
palate with some spiciness on the finish. A tasty glugging wine and
good value at about £6-£7. Very good+
Domaine Les Pallières Gigondas 1999
The first fully Brunier-controlled vintage at this newly acquired
property. Deep coloured. The nose is quite muted, with some herb and
spice notes. Palate is chunky and tannic and still quite closed, so
it's difficult to assess. I reckon this will develop a bit, though.
Very good
La Roquette Rouge 1999 Châteauneuf du Pape
A deep red/purple colour. There's a touch of sweet herby fruit on the
nose, which is currently a little closed. The rich, dense palate shows
deep, spicy red berry fruit with some herby complexity. Very youthful,
but there's lots happening here. It's an expressive, chunky wine with
a lot of potential. Very good/excellent
Clos La Roquette Blanc 2000 Châteauneuf du Pape
A blend of Roussanne, Clairette and Grenache Blanc. Touch of herby,
waxy fruit on the nose. Full flavoured and crisp on the palate, with
good intensity. A modern style. Very good
Vieux Télégraphe Rouge 1999 Châteauneuf du Pape
A wine that lives up to this estate's considerable reputation. Deep
coloured with a brooding nose showing intense spicy fruit with some
herbs and menthol -- still a touch closed though. Concentrated,
chunky, classic palate with lots of spicy character. It's tannic,
aggressive, and a bit tight at the moment, but has super potential for
ageing: don't open for a decade or so. Excellent