Reliable, independent buying advice from the wine anorak
November 2000

Wines under £8 | Wines over £8

Previous months' recommendations: January 2000 | February 2000|March 2000|April/May 2000|June 2000|July 2000|August 2000|September 2000|October 2000

Bargain picks: wines under £8

La Cuvée Mythique 1998, Vin de Pays d'Oc, Val d'Orbieu
This attractively packaged wine is the top cuvée from the large negociant firm of Val d'Orbieu in the Languedoc. This chewy, structured wine is a real winner. Dense red/black, with a nose of smoky, meaty red fruits. Chunky and with earthy tannins on the palate, the noticeable oak adds depth and spice to what is a satisfying and balanced wine. There's also a minerally, stony edge to the fruit. Very good (£6.49 Waitrose, Majestic)

Fox Wood Old Bush Vine Syrah 1998, Vin de Pays d'Oc
Made from 45 year old bush vines and aged in American oak. This concentrated southern red is full of character, with a stony/earthy nose and ripe, earthy fruit, firm tannins and some spiciness from the unobtrusive oaking. Very good+, and a bargain. (£4.99 Majestic)

Chapel Hill Irsai Oliver 1999 Balatonboglár winery, South Balaton, Hungary
The cheapest wine to make my recommended list yet, this is a more-ish quaffing white with some class. Delightfully aromatic, floral wine with a lovely flowery, grapey nose and a savoury palate bolstered by cutting acidity. Very good. (£3.29 Sainsburys)

Chapel Down Bacchus 1999, English Vineyards Quality Wine PSR
Another surprising, off-the-beaten track pick: Chapel Down have established themselves as the leading light in the UK wine scene, proving that English whites don't have to be lean and tooth-erodingly acidic. This is a boldly flavoured, leafy, rounded wine with a rich texture -- it's like a full-on Loire Sauvignon. Lovely aromatic nose. For an English wine this is right at the top of the tree, and it's priced attractively too. Very good. (£4.99 Majestic)

1999 Château Grande Cassagne, Costières de Nîmes Blanc
Grenache Blanc (80%) and Roussanne (20%). Lovely full, rounded nose. Attractively floral and waxy. On the palate this is crisp and full flavoured, with a touch of oak. Very impressive; I'm often unmoved by southern French whites. Very good. (£6.75, La Vigneronne)

Santa Julia Viognier 2000, Mendoza, Argentina
Viognier is one of the most trendy white varieties, but I've rarely been convinced by cheap examples -- this is an exception. Authentic varietal Viognier with an attractive nose of flowers, spice and peaches. Good concentration on the palate with crisp, clean, spicy flavours and good acidity. Very good. (£4.99 Sainsburys)

Wines over £8

Côtes du Roussillon Tautavel 1997, Domaine des Chênes
A powerful, stunning wine of real character. Herby, medicinal, pungent nose. Concentrated, mouth-filling, meaty palate. Delicious and individual. Excellent. (£9.95 La Vigneronne)

Erich & Walter Polz Grauburgunder 1998 Grassnitzberg, Südstermark, Austria
It's rare to see a high street merchant stocking Austrian wines. Full flavoured yet delicate, sophisticated dry white wine. Lovely smokey nose with a touch of honey. Dry spicy palate: quite rich, with a full texture and a nice smoky character. Very good/excellent. (£7.99 Oddbins).

Coteaux du Layon Saint-Aubin 'Les Bruandières' Grains Nobiles 1997, Domaine Cady
Stunning stuff: a rich nose of apricots, honey and spice is followed up with a ripe, rich, spicy and sweet palate. There's a honey and marmalade edge to this thick-textured wine. Complex and botrytised, the moderate acidity would lead me to drink this soon while it still holds together nicely. Very good/excellent. (Sainsbury £8.99/50 cl)

Jean-Marc Brocard Chablis 1er Cru Vaucoupin 1997
Lovely concentrated-yet-subtle Chablis with a dense honey and mineral nose, followed up on the palate by honey, spice and mineral notes. Complex and well balanced with appropriate acidity, I'd drink this now. Good value, too. Very good+ (£9.99 Oddbins)

Lindemans Padthaway Chardonnay 1998, South Australia
This may sound like a daft assertion, but I rate this as one of Australia's finest Chardonnays, even though it is not in the super-premium bracket. Each time I've tried this Padthaway wine (a small region in South Australia that specialises in Chardonnay), I've been bowled over. Stunning nose and palate of ripe, tropical fruit, coconut, melon and spicy oak. Great balance and depth of flavour. Great value for money, very good/excellent. (£7.99 Unwins, £8.49 Thresher).

E-mail me with your recommendations or suggestions at wineanorak@i.am