Restless River
Jamie Goode and Treve Ring visit this new star in the Hemel-En-Aarde
Anne and Craig Wessels, Restless
River
Craig Wessels has a day job. He founded successful animation and
design agency Wicked Pixels (http://wickedpixels.com), which he's still involved with. But together with his wife
Anne, he's also established a new venture, Restless River. It's a
small winery in the Heme-en-Aarde valley that started life in 2004
from scratch. First vintage was 2005, and along with the following
vintage, this was made in a tiny hut, as a sort of hobby venture.
The Restless River label was launched as recently as 2012. The
winery has grown from its hut beginnings, but not by too much. The
2017 vintage saw just 25 tons crushed. There are 7 hectares of vines
on this 20 hectare property.
The
original winery
We visited while some of the Cabernet Sauvignon grapes, the last to
be harvested, were arriving. Hemel-en-Aarde is one of the coolest
climates for this variety in the Cape, but with low yields and
careful farming on good soils, the Restless River Cabernet has
developed a loyal following. 'I'm happy for Cabernet to taste like
Cabernet,' says Craig. 'I'm not scared of greenness. I'm committed
to 100% varietal character. I'm the only idiot in the valley who
takes Cabernet seriously.'
Cabernet
Sauvignon, just harvested
The other wine that has established the winery's reputation is
Chardonnay. Craig looks for freshness in his Chardonnay, and picks
with high acidity. He also likes old barrels, and when he buys new
ones, he often lends them out for a year before using them. A new
addition to the cellar is a pair of amphorae, from Tuscany, which
are used to ferment Chardonnay.
Grenache undergoing carbonic maceration
New to the range is Pinot Noir, first made in 2016 from vines
planted in 2013. The first two vintages are lovely, but still both
in barrel. They will be released under the label 'Lalochezia', which
is the sense of satisfaction you get from using foul language. In
time, when the vines are old enough, Pinot will become part of the
core range.
Another new addition to the range is small parcel lots of
interesting things. These will be released under the DILLIRGAF
label, which is a biker acronym for 'do I look like I really give a
****'. For 2017 it will be Grenache. Some has been fermented in an
upturned barrel with the end removed, while the rest of the two tons
is being given whole bunch carbonic maceration. We looked at a tank
that had been left for 8 days: the bunches still looked intact and
the grapes had a slight prickle to them: internal fermentation had
begun.
The Retless River labels are inspired by old whisky, which Craig is
a fan of. They have lots of detail. 'If you understand what is on
the label, then you are the sort of person I am making wine for.'
THE
WINES
Tasting notes by Jamie Goode (JG) and Treve Ring (TR)
Restless River Ava Marie Chardonnay 2016 Hemel-en-Aarde,
South Africa Bottled two weeks ago. Focused, fresh and
mineral with lovely acidity. Really precise with some meal and pear
notes as well as keen lemony acidity. Has structure and linearity.
There's lots of flavour here but it's all nicely channelled. Shows
great precision and a long stony, lemony finish. 94/100 (JG)
Restless River 2016 Ava Marie Chardonnay
Named for their daughter, the 2016 Ava Marie Chardonnay was bottled
two weeks prior to tasting.
Out of barrel, this rested into stainless steel for 3 months before
bottling. Lovely fine spice to open the creamy palate, one fuller
bodied, finely spiced. Very polished and finessed, with an appealing
fine texture throughout that lingers on the finish. Gentle oak works
well in this young wine. 92/100 (TR)
Restless River Ava Marie Chardonnay 2015 Hemel-en-Aarde,
South Africa There's real precision and elegance here
with some yellow plum, white peach and citrus fruit, beautifully
open with a hint of mandarin character. There's such lovely acidity,
really well integrated into the wine, which has a real citrus core
to it. Such balance here, with lovely delicacy and focus. 95/100
(JG)
Restless River 2015 Ava Marie Chardonnay
2015 was a stellar vintage across the Western Cape, and this is
illustrating the year well. Very complete at this stage, with
hazelnuts, fine lemon pith and peel very well integrated into the
wine. Textural, fresh, with a fine herbal lees that lingers on the
finish. Drinking beautifully now, but will continue to age. In the
2015 vintage, some big changes occurred in the white wine regime,
importantly the move to the Vaslin press and aging in larger format
barrels (only 1 new barrel for the chardonnay). 94/100 (TR)
Restless River Ava Marie Chardonnay 2014 Hemel-en-Aarde,
South Africa A wet, humid vintage that wasn't easy.
Current release. Such balance here. Nut and cream notes as well as
some spiciness, complementing the lemon and peach fruit. Great
precision and purity with fine nutty, spicy notes. Fine toast and
spice with nice concentration and weight. 93/100 (JG)
Restless River 2014 Ava Marie Chardonnay
Earthy, herbal and salted, the 2014 has a tighter, leaner and more
restricted frame and form. Finely spiced and textural on the finish.
Drinking lovely now, with its subtleties. 91/100 (TR)
Restless River Main Road and Dignity Cabernet Sauvignon 2013
Hemel-en-Aarde, South Africa Lovely blackcurrant nose
with some cedar and gravel notes. Beautifully perfumed. Fresh,
supple, restrained and beautifully drinkable with some sweetness but
also lovely purity and a gravelly blackcurrant core. Really
delicious and expressive with lovely purity. 94/100 (JG)
Restless
River 2013 Main Road & Dignity Cabernet Sauvignon
One of the few to grow Cabernet Sauvignon in Hemel-en-Aarde Valley.
20% whole berry, basked pressed, wild ferment, 15-40 day maceration
and barrel aged 21 months in 75% old wood before being bottled
unfined and unfiltered. Earthy-hued fruit, cassis, black cherry,
subtle anise with very fine textures and ample salted licorice. So
fresh and drinkable now, but will still age well. 93/100 (TR)
Restless River Cabernet Sauvignon 2011 Hemel-en-Aarde, South
Africa There's a refined, restrained perfume to the
nose. There's freshness and purity to the blackcurrant fruit, with
some fresh black cherry notes. Some grip on the palate. Very supple
and pure with elegance and restraint, as well as some structure.
This shows a lovely light, berry fruit edge with real elegance. Is
developing really nicely. 94/100 (JG)
Restless River 2011 Main Road & Dignity Cabernet Sauvignon
From the cooler 2011 vintage. After a 33-day maceration, this 100%
whole berry cab spent time in 33% new wood. Riper black currant and
cassis fills a dense black plum, palate, softer with time, and still
with a tug of tannins on the finish. 91/100 (TR)
The
original winery 
Cabernet
Sauvignon, just harvested 
