The wines
of
Seresin Vineyards, Marlborough, New Zealand
Michael Seresin is one of those rare people who has
managed to make a name for himself in two quite distinct fields:
filmmaking and wine. His first career was as a cinematographer: born
in Wellington, at the foot of New Zealand’s north Island, he left
New Zealand in 1966 to forge a successful career in the movies, which
he continues to this day. He’s famous for the nine films he’s made
with British director Allan Parker, as well as working with Alfonso
Cuaron on the third Harry Potter film, The Prisoner of Azkabhan.
When Seresin first left New Zealand in the late 1960s for
Italy, he found it a real culture shock. 'How people lived was
opposite to how I'd lived in New Zealand', he recalls. After a spell
in the UK, he moved back to Italy once more, and clearly was captured
by the culture of food and wine he experienced there. 'I like what
wine embraces', he says, and when he decided to turn his hand to
making the stuff, his first thought was to do it in Italy, before
settling on his home country as the destination. 'I didn't think I'd
be smart enough to do business in Italy', says Seresin. 'Besides, you
are free to do a lot more in the New World than the Old'.
Seresin began his Marlborough winery in 1992, and this estate is far
from being a vanity project, or a plaything for a wealthy retiree.
Seresin is a serious player in Marlborough, and quite early on he
decided he wanted to go against the grain and farm organically. He’s
now working with biodynamics, too, for part of his vineyard
management.
As befits a filmmaker whose attention is frequently on the
quality of the light, as much as what is in the shot, the Seresin
wines have a transparency to them. There's almost a quality of
lightness that brings a sharp focus on what is present in the wine
(does this sort of synaesthetic description work, or does it just
sound pseudy?).
The time Seresin spends in New Zealand varies, but is
typically blocks of 2–6 weeks two or three times a year. He has a
small but good cellar, mainly featuring northern Italian whites,
central Italian reds and high-end Burgundy.
Of the wines, for me the standouts are the focused, precise Sauvignon
Blanc and the two wonderful, complex, balanced Pinot Noirs. Perhaps
it's the influence of organics and biodynamics that Seresin practices,
or the fact that everything is done by hand, but this is an impressive
set of wines. And the cinematographer influence came out when I asked
Michael if I could take his picture. 'Don't use the flash,' he
advised. 'The natural light is good in here.'
UK agent: Armit www.armit.co.uk
– retail prices in the UK are given in brackets
Seresin Riesling 2004 Marlborough
Aromatic, limey nose. Bone dry palate with crisp fruit and a nice
lightness, with a mineralic finish. Stylish and transparent. 90/100 (£13)
Seresin Gewürztraminer 2006 Marlborough
Flowery and aromatic, with fresh lychee fruit on the nose. Plump,
rich-textured off dry palate with nice softness. Nice example of NZ
Gewurz. 90/100 (£14.50)
Seresin Pinot Gris 2006 Marlborough
There’s a freshness here, but also a rounded, rich texture to
the wine. Quite plump. 89/100 (£16.30)
Seresin Sauvignon Blanc 2006 Marlborough
Bright, focused, precise nose is limey and grassy. The palate is
expressive and forward with high acid and some minerality. Very
tightly focused style. 92/100 (£1.95)
Seresin Marama Sauvignon Blanc 2005 Marlborough
Smooth, toasty, intense nose with minerality and bold, herbal
fruit. Nice depth of aroma here. The palate is concentrated and bold
with lots of toasty oak and bold herbal fruit. Remarkable stuff that
has some complexity, and which shows that the marriage of Sauvignon
Blanc and oak sort of works. 91/100 (£16.45)
Seresin Reserve Chardonnay 2005 Marlborough
Lovely complex, bready toasty nose. Refined, creamy and bready.
The palate is soft, supple and bold with well integrated oak. Full
flavoured and classy. 91/100 (£16.55)
Seresin Raupo Creek Pinot Noir 2005 Marlborough
Brilliant effort. Smooth, elegant, complex nose with cherry and
red fruits, and meaty, spicy complexity. The palate has lovely acidity
and great elegance, with complex spicy fruit and smooth tannins.
94/100 (£21.80)
Seresin ‘Leah’ Pinot Noir 2005 Marlborough
Wonderful complex nose: bright, perfumed meaty red fruits
dominate, with a smoky edge. The palate is concentrated and elegant
with delicious meaty, spicy fruit and real presence and poise. 93/100
Wines tasted 01/07
Find
these wines with wine-searcher.com
Below is an
earlier report on Seresin, from November 2003:
Seresin Estate, Bedford Road,
Renwick, Marlborough, New Zealand
Phone: (03) 572 9408 Fax: (03) 572 9850
Email: seresin@xtra.co.nz
Website: www.seresin.co.nz
A
chance to revisit the wines of Seresin, a Marlborough
producer whose offerings impressed me more than
a year ago. I wasn’t disappointed: these are really superb
across the board, with the highlights being the Marama Sauvignon and
the Pinot Noir.
I had a chat with viticulturalist Bart
Arnst, previously of
Montana. He explained the lengths they went to with their viticulture,
such as pruning the shoulders off the bunches of grapes (these are
usually less ripe than the main part of the bunch) and ploughing
alternate rows to simulate the effects of partial root drying (a
viticultural technique that aims to make the vine think it’s
suffering drought when it isn’t, resulting in better quality grapes
for lower water input).
Seresin Sauvignon Blanc 2003 Marlborough, New Zealand
This Sauvignon displays a really forward, grassy, herby nose. On
the palate there is lovely length to the fruit. Herby and full. Very
good/excellent 91/100
Marama Sauvignon 2002 Marlborough, New Zealand
50% new French oak-aged Sauvignon fermented with wild yeasts, with
30% lower cropping levels and hand picking. Lovely nose, showing some
nuttiness behind the rich, ripe herby fruit. Dense, rich, ripe
seamless palate with lots of interest. The oak provides a nice
richness. Very good/excellent 93/100
Pinot Gris 2003 Marlborough, New Zealand
One bunch per shoot is left on the vine and the shoulders are
taken off each bunch. It is aged in old barrels and has 6 g/l residual
sugar. Rich, rounded, spicy fruity nose. Lovely richness to the
palate: a striking, rich, ripe wine with a thick texture. Quite
lovely. Very good/excellent 90/100
Riesling 2001 Marlborough, New Zealand
Rich, ripe fruit with some lemony freshness.
Dry but rounded. Very
good+ 88/100
Reserve Chardonnay 2002 Marlborough, New Zealand
Wild fermented with a little bit of natural malolactic
fermentation. Fermented in 25% new oak, and it goes to barrel before
the juice has settled. Rich, toasty nutty nose. The palate is rich,
rounded and quite complex with lots of nutty richness. Seamless. Very
good/excellent 92/100
Pinot Noir 2002 Marlborough, New Zealand
The shoulders are taken off the bunches to avoid the sweet and
sour effect often found with Pinot Noir. Some whole berry component is
left in the fermentation, which is achieved by natural yeasts. Sweet
ripe fruit on the nose. Very smooth ripe fruit on the palate with some
elegance. Lovely juicy, ripe wine that is quite elegant. Very
good/excellent 93/100
wines tasted November 2003
see also: tasting notes of New Zealand wines
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