The
wines of Clos du Tue-Boeuf, Puzelat Frères, Touraine
Natural wines from one of the Loire's most interesting producers
Website: www.puzelat.com
Thierry Puzelat
Thierry and
Jean-Marie Puzelat—brothers—are natural wine royalty. They are
making some of the Loire’s most interesting wines and are at the
heart of the natural wine movement. They began working in their
family domaine in the 1990s, and at the heart of the operation is
the 10 hectare family estate—the Clos du Tue-Boeuf—in the
Cheverny appellation, which is supplemented by 6 hectares rented in
the nearby Touraine appellation.
Thierry also has
a negociant arm, which is called Puzelat-Bonhomme, adhering to the
same natural standards. For all the wines, fermentation is with wild
yeasts and no or very little sulphur dioxide is employed through the
winemaking process.
Their location
in the Loire means that they get to play with a wide array of grape
varieties, including Gamay, Côt (Malbec), Menu Pineau, Pinot Noir,
Sauvignon Blanc and Romorantin.
For an in-depth
look at Puzelat, see Bertrand Celce’s excellent article: www.wineterroirs.com/2008/07/thierry_puzelat.html
THE
WINES
Clos du Tue-Boeuf Brin de Chevre 2009
varietal Menu Pineau. Lively
nutty nose is aromatic and fresh. Notes of citrus and nuts with
lovely precision and acidity. 91/100
Clos du Tue-Boeuf
Cheverny Blanc ‘Frileuse’ 2010
Nutty, appley and a bit citrussy with pear and herb notes. Lively
and distinctive with good acidity. 90/100
Clos du Tue-Boeuf Buisson Pouilleux Vieilles Vignes 2010
Open, appley, nutty nose. Lively. Lovely
mineral, nutty palate. Made in an oxidative style, but alive, with
notes of apples and herbs. 91/100
Clos du Tue-Boeuf
Cheverny Rouge 2010
Mainly Pinot Noir with a bit of Gamay. Lively, open, aromatic
nose with elegant, sappy cherry fruit. Beautifully elegant palate with cherry fruit dominant.
92/100
Clos du Tue-Boeuf
Cheverny Rouge ‘Rouillon’ 2010
Half Pinot Noir, half Gamay. Lovely mineral nose is smoky,
elegant and aromatic with red cherry fruit. The palate is superbly
fresh and elegant with fine mineral notes. 93/100
Clos du Tue-Boeuf La Guerrerie 2009 Touraine
Côt and Gamay. Wonderfully
fresh, vivid and spicy with good structure. Vivid cherry and
raspberry fruit to the fore, backed by good acidity. 94/100
Puzelat
Bonhomme Romorantin 2009 Vin de France
Very lively and expressive with intense herby, citrussy, nutty
fruit. Fresh pear notes. Some texture. 92/100
Puzelat
Bonhomme ‘In Côt We Trust’ 2009
Lively aromatics: fresh, pure and beautifully perfumed with dark
fruits. Bright and fresh and pure with a mineral dimension. 93/100
Puzelat
Bonhomme Pinot Noir 2009 Touraine
Elegant, fresh, sappy style with pure, bright, supple cherry
fruit. I just love the elegance here. 92/100
UK Agent: Les
Caves de Pyrene
See
also:
Blog
posts on Natural Wine
Published
12/10
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