Madeira: the niche of the niche
Jamie Goode and Treve
Ring visit the island of Madeira with Blandy's, the leading wine
producer
When you're speaking about fringe wine regions, you can slot Madeira
at the top of the
list. 'It's the niche of the niche,' says Chris Blandy, whose family
are the largest producers on the island by some distance.
But
it wasn't always the case. Back in the 18th Century, Madeira was one
of the most important wines in the world. Of late, its image has
been tarnished by cheap versions used for cooking, with a small
amount of premium wines hiding in the cellars of collectors.
However, recent advances in technology, marketing and wine quality
has primed this unique wine for the spotlight once again.
A FILM: Madeira, the niche of the niche
This rare, fortified wine is only produced and bottled on a small
sub-tropical Portuguese Island in the Atlantic, geographically
closer to Morocco than it is to mainland Portugal. Steep and
mountainous, Madeira covers 740 square kilometres, rising steeply
from sea level up to 1862 metres at its peak, and it is home to
seven different microclimates spanning cold Atlantic to subtropical,
dictating where vineyards are planted.
Francisco Albuquerque (winemaker, Blandy's) and Chris Blandy
Vegetation is lush, polyculture dominates, and bananas are the main
crop. The slopes and soils make much of the land difficult to reach
and work, therefore terracing and hand harvesting is normal. It's as
common to see a mini banana belt in someone's front yard as it is a
few rows of vines; the average size of vineyard is only 100 metres
squared, and there are 1700 registered vineyard owners accounting
for the 490 hectares of vines planted. Growing rights and
inheritance laws makes it virtually impossible to purchase existing
vineyard land, and with little viable land available, expansion
isn't an option. Even Blandy's, the largest Madeira company by far,
only owns 8 ha of vineyards. 99% of their production is from the 580
growers they have contracts with.
Tinta
Negra vineyard
Vineyards are grown across the island, taking advantage of the
different climates and soils. The island is virtually divided in
half by a mountain range. The north side of the Island is cooler,
more humid and lush, while the south side is warm, drier and sunny.
The volcanic based soils are fertile, acidic, and clay based, rich
in iron and phosphorous and poor in potassium, which aids with the
trademark acidity of the grapes and the longevity of the wines.
Chris Blandy, seventh generation of Blandy's Madeira, maintains that
'the whole essence of Madeira is long term aging.' As our fast-paced
culture yearns to slow, this obscure, hand-raised wine of time seems
a proper fit. Sales of Madeira have grown 20% in value over the last
5 years, with 5-year-old and older categories seeing the most gains.
The entry-level 3-year-old sales have remained flat.
History and Process
It
was this longevity that made Madeira famous in the first place. The
island of Madeira was a standard port of call for ships heading to
the New World or East Indies in the age of exploration. Wine barrels
accompanied the sailors on these long journeys in the 15th
and 16th century, considered as much as a necessary
ration as they were ballast. To prevent the wine from spoiling
during the long sea voyage, brandy was added to fortify and
preserve. As legend has it, on one round trip to India, the barrels
were untouched, and the wine returned to Madeira in cask. It was
discovered that the wine had improved considerably to the quadruple
crossing of the equator, and the hot temperatures 'cooking' the cask
wine in the ships' hull. For centuries after, shippers continued to
send casks of wine on long sea voyages to develop similar character.
As demand grew, producers needed to find ways of replicating the
heating process in a more timely and economical manner. In the 18th
century, Dr. Pantelião Fernandes invented the estufagem process,
where the fortified wines were warmed in large tanks called estufas,
up to 45C. Wines were kept heated in the estufas for four months,
after which they were cooled and left to age for two years in 9000
litre inert Brazilian satinwood vats. The process continues today
for the entry-level, 3-year-old Madeiras, made exclusively with the
sole black grape, Tinta Negra.
The
premium wines are predominantly produced with traditional white
grapes: Sercial, Verdelho, Terrantez, Bual and Malmsey. For these
wines, 5, 10, 15, 20 and above, the canteiro process is used,
whereby wines are aged in seasoned American oak cases in lofts for a
minimum of four years. American oak has greater porosity, necessary
for evaporation. The humidity and temperature varies depending on
the floor of the loft, with the heat coming naturally and gently
from the sun. Over time, the casks are moved from the warmest, attic
level, the Sotão de Amendoa, down to the lower cooler floors via a
process of trap doors and pulleys. The casks are not topped up,
allowing the wine to slowly oxidize and concentrate. Chris Blandy
approximates they lose 3% of volume each year due to evaporation;
that's a lot of happy angels.
With today's stainless steel fermentation and use of 96% neutral
grape spirit for fortification, coupled with the lengthy canteiro
process, premium Madeiras are said to be indestructible, and will
last easily for a year once opened. Blandy's chief winemaker,
Francisco Albuquerque, has just marked his 27th
vintage with the company, and has been involved in a detailed
research project with the local university since 1997, monitoring
the effects of the estufagem on the quality of the wine. His
research in controlling the pH, dry extract and tannins through
temperature control have proven very promising for quality,
eliminating the need for fining agents, and lowering the volatile
acidity. The results of his research will raise the quality and
consistency of the estufagem Madeiras, and they're trialing the use
of white grapes with the process, which could significantly increase
the availability, and one would surmise, decrease the price.
Grapes and Styles
Madeira is a varietal wine by legislation, still based on the grapes
planted by the initial Portuguese settlers in the 15th
century. Though there are only 15% white grapes planted on the
Island, these are the ones used exclusively for the long-lived,
premium Madeiras. The sole red, Tinta Negra, is highly productive,
and used predominately to make the three-year-old wines. Tinta Negra
leapt into the lead after phylloxera hit the island in 1872, as the
thick-skinned grape was quick and easy to replant and flourish.
A
Sercial vineyard, with the vines trained low to the ground
The
grapes have come to typify the style of Madeira. Sercial originates
from Bucelas, near Lisboa, where it was known as Esgagna Cão, or Dog
Strangler, due to its high acidity. This fresh white, thin-skinned
grape is always used to make dry Madeira.
Verdelho has been grown on the island since the 17th
century, and is the white grape with the largest plantings (47 ha)
today. Before phylloxera, Verdelho accounted for 2/3 of plantings.
With low yields, moderate sugar levels and marked acidity, it is
always used to produce medium-dry Madeira.
Terrantez is an ancient, low-yielding, thin-skinned, late-ripening
variety that nearly disappeared after phylloxera, though replantings
have been increasing in recent years. The oldest bottle that has
come onto the market is a 1715 Terrantez, reflecting its lengthy
heritage.
Bual is cultivated mainly in the southern coast, and is a vigourous,
late budding variety. The grape produces wines with spicy, dried
fruit notes, and is used for medium sweet Madeira.
Malmsey, also known as Malvasia, was introduced to the island in the
15th
century. This early-budding, late-ripening grape produces the
sweetest Madeira.
There are two main categories of Madeira: blended and dated. The
balance of the blended wines is entirely up to house and winemaker,
and authorized blends are 3, 5, 10, 15, 20, 30 and 'more than 40
year old'. The years reflect the average age of wine in the bottle.
The
dated wines are further broken down into two subcategories. Colheita
was a term introduced in 2000 by the Blandy family, and influenced
by Port wine. The aim was to release an outstanding wine prior to it
becoming a 20-year-old vintage.
Vintage, or Frasquiera Madeiras, are the highest quality tier, and
must age for at least 20 years in cask before being bottled and
released. There is no maximum aging period. The oldest madeira
Blandy's has in cask is a Bual from 1920. 'Thankfully most of the
old family stocks on the island have been bottled,' according to
Chris Blandy. 'There is nothing sadder than finding old stocks that
have been spoiled through neglect.'
A Verdelho vineyard
Looking Ahead
In
order to prevent any semblance of neglect, Blandy's made a massive
move in 2016 from their headquarters in the heart of Funchal, where
the winery had been functioning since 1811, to a new, spacious and
consolidated warehouse on the outskirts of town, near the airport
and main shipping port. They painstakingly moved 1.5 million litres
of wine to the new facility, as well as relocated all the bottling,
packaging, and company offices. The new facility has a 3 million
litre capacity, which sounds a lot until you reflect on the lengthy
aging process required to make fine Madeira. And with Chris driving
production, Francisco Albuquerque pioneering research and both
aiming their team at quality over the very long term, the dark days
of historic Madeira appear to be a thing of the past.
Samples
in the laboratory
The
new barrel storage area
We
spent three days with Blandy's, touring vineyards across the island,
and tasting current and library releases. Blandy's controls the
Madeira Wine Company, and was in partnership with the Symington's
from 1989 until a few years ago. The Company also oversees the
brands Cossart Gordon, Leacock's and Miles.
THE
WINES
Tasting notes from Treve Ring (TR) and Jamie Goode (JG)
Blandy's Alvada 5 Year Old Rich Madeira This is a relatively new product from the historic Madeira house of
Blandy's, and a daring one at that. Breaking from an exclusive
mono-varietal tradition, this modern Madeira is a 50/50 blend of
malvasia and bual, aged in the traditional cask and loft canteiro
system for five years. Potent fruitcake, rancio notes, aged wood,
sugared plums, maple syrup coat the round and juicy palate,
thankfully lifted with a lime marmalade cut and carried by a
smoothed, sweet mid to a fiery, orange-oil finish. Ideal for
cocktails. This is ready to drink now, particularly if you're
looking for an alternative to youthful tawny Port or sweeter
oloroso. 88/100 (TR)
Blandy's Madeira Duke of Clarence Rich Pouring a golden brown hue, with notes of salt-roasted nuts, sanded wood
and lighter molasses on the nose. The soft palate is overwhelmed by
abundant caramelized brown sugar, before coffee, marmalade, sweet
tobacco and orange pith brighten. I reckon Duke of Clarence must be
the most recognized Madeira the world over? Rich is the fullest
category of Madeira, and this softer, simple Rich is accessible to
all. A very sweet, historic wine, finishing with a spirited warmth
that welcomes fruitcake or gingerbread pudding. 87/100 (TR)
Blandy's 10 Years Secial Dry NV Madeira, Portugal
Richly aromatic with bright citrus, orange peel and date on the
nose. The palate has zippy acidity and lovely intensity with a bit
of sweetness countering the high acidity and complex notes of dates,
raisins and citrus fruits. 92/100 (JG)
Blandy's Sercial Dry 10 Year Old
Light brown hue, with roasted nuts, orange oil, clementine, aged
wood, lovely oxidized and roasted wood notes. Fine, dry, great
length. Lighter bodied. Finessed and salty, with tobacco lingering.
91/100 (TR)
Blandy's 10 Years Verdelho Medium Dry NV Madeira, Portugal
Wonderfully aromatic nose with some tropical fruits, toast and
hazelnut. Beautifully balanced palate has real elegance and purity
with subtle raisiny richness and lovely fruity characters. There’s
an amazing sense of balance here: it’s off dry, but the sugar and
acid are in harmony. Lovely. 94/100 (JG)
Blandy's Verdelho Medium Dry 10 Year Old Orange brown
hue. Rum roasted banana, pineapple, baked oranges, light nutmeg
spicing. Fiery with a bit of a grip and great spicy on the finish.
Quite tropical. 90/100 (TR)
Blandy's 10 Years Bual Medium Rich NV Madeira, Portugal Complex nose of raisins, nuts and old casks. Refined and detailed, with
some whisky notes. The palate is complex and rich yet stays fresh,
with a harmony to the detailed, spicy citrus peel and honey
characters. Long nutty finish. 94/100 (JG)
Blandy's Bual Medium Rich 10 Year Old Deeper orange
brown hue with flecks of green. Burnished orange, some medicinal
notes colouring the sweeter wood tones. Prominent sanded wood, light
caramel, honeyed walnuts, well-integrated tannins, and orange oil,
with tobacco notes entering in the lengthy, fiery end. 91/100 (TR)
Blandy's 10 Years Malmsey Rich NV Madeira, Portugal
Rich and intense with appealing sweet raisin and spice characters.
Hints of tar and treacle, as well as old casks. Broad, spicy,
detailed and very rich with nice sweetness. Long finish. 93/100 (JG)
Blandy's Malmsey Rich 10 Year Old Walnut hue,
with flashes of orange. Brandied walnuts, roasted almonds and
hazelnut paste aromas carry to the palate, where fine, grippy brisk
tannins structure. Acidity holds the sweetness very well. Worn woods
close the finish, along with great white peppery spicing. 93/100
(TR)
Blandy's Sercial 2002 Madeira, Portugal Harmonious and elegant with nuts, citrus fruits and a slight raisiny
richness. This is fresh and because of the high acidity it tastes
quite dry, although there is some sweetness. Detailed, refined,
nutty and elegant, this has lots of interest. 94/100 (JG)
Blandy's Sercial 2002 Concentrated
and fiery, with orange oil, well integrated wood notes, ample
saltiness and verve. Streamlined, with elegance and a fine grip
through the fantastic length. 92/100 (TR)
Cossart Gordon Bual 2008 Madeira, Portugal Old wood,
almonds and raisins on the nose. Supple, citrussy palate is fresh
and expansive, with complex flavours of wood, spice, raisins and
marmalade book ended by sweetness and acidity. Old cask flavours on
the finish. 93/100 (JG)
Cossart Gordon Bual 2008 Dominant orange
/ green flecked hue. Floral notes, blunted orange and wood - very
cedar box. Toasted cereals lead to a fiery palate, with hints
tangerine and marmalade. Star anise, Szechwan spicing on the snappy
finish. 89/100 (TR)
Blandy's Malmsey 1999 Madeira, Portugal
Complex treacle and raisins on the nose. Nutty, spicy and intense on
the palate with raisiny richness and a long, warm, rich finish. A
bold sweet style with sweetness but also refreshing acidity. 94/100
(JG)
Blandy's Malmsey 1999 Deep orange
hue, this lures with potent, honeyed walnuts, roasted almonds and
ample sea salts. Brisk with acidy, and grippy with fine tannins, a
savoury marmalade, pervades the generous palate, with tangerine oil
lingering on the lengthy finish. Lovely concentration and balance
throughout. 94/100 (TR)
Blandy's Bual Medium Rich 30 Year Old Brown orange
hue, with potent, orange compote raisins, walnuts, and evident wood.
Very concentrated palate, with, fine tobacco and brisk salts. Still
quite lively in the mouth, belying its exceptional concentration,
and continuing through its exceptional length. 94/100 (TR)
Leacock's Tinta Negra 1995 Reddish brown
hue, with boozy and porty raisins anchoring this, deep and potent
palate. Walnut oil, bitter coffee notes, aged wood and marmalade
fill out the palate, to a moderate finish. More rustic styled.
90/100 (TR)
Blandy's Bual 2003 Madeira, Portugal Nutty and intense on the nose with some raisin, spice and old furniture
character. The palate is off-dry with the sweetness nicely
countering the acidity, and some raisin and marmalade richness.
Long, intense finish. 95/100JG)
Blandy's Bual 2003 Golden brown hue. Super potent nose, with walnut honeyed, roasted
hazelnuts, layers of almond paste with cedar sanded wood. Burnished
orange peel and marmalade on the silky palate lead into tobacco and
worn wood notes. Big flake salts on the fiery, lengthy finish.
93/100 (TR)
Blandy's 30 Years Bual NV Madeira, Portugal
The nose is multifaceted, aromatic and intense. Sweet raisin and
treacle aromas merge with savoury nutty, leathery, earthy, woody
hints. Concentrated yet light on its feet, this wine has a complex
palate of raisin, honey, old casks, treacle, dates and marmalade.
Such elegance and complexity. Thought-provoking. 96/100 (JG)
Leacock's Tinta Negra 1995 Madeira, Portugal
So intense and vivid, this shows massive treacle and marmalade
characters. There’s lovely depth and richness, with raisins, nuts
and spices. It’s just a wall of rich, intense, sweet flavour.
Lovely. 93/100 (JG)
Blandy's Sercial 1975 Madeira, Portugal Taut citrus
pith and almond nose with some date and cherry notes. The palate is
dry, lively and intense with a pronounced nuttiness and lovely
depth. Fresh, detailed and really complex, this has a long nutty
finish. Powerful and vivid, its really hard to spit. 95/100 (JG)
Blandy's Sercial 1975 Glowing orange
hue. Caramels, almond shell, ample flake salts, subtle worn wood.
Bright, complexed and dry, with massive concentration and finesse.
Some bitter wood / wormwood notes eclipsed by a lingering mandarin
oil finish. Precise and alive still. 93/100 (TR)
Blandy's Verdelho 1979 Madeira, Portugal
Complex nose of treacle, old furniture and raisins. Quite dark with
a hint of roast coffee too. Rich, intense, raisiny palate with
lovely intensity and high acidity balancing the sweetness. There are
really intriguing burnt molasses notes, too, adding a sweet and
savoury character at the same time. Some iron notes, too? 94/100
(JG)
Blandy's Verdelho 1979 This beguiling,
savoury wine is layers of aged wood and ample salts, through a very
earthy, almond guise. This has traded some of its sugar intensity
more increased oxidized, citrus oil concentration and complexity.
94/100 (TR)
Blandy's Terrantez 1980 Madeira, Portugal Fresh, vital and energizing with superb acidity integrated into the sweet
core of this wine. It combines marmalade, apricots, plums and
raisins, with lemon and grapefruit freshness, finising with a spicy,
cedary, raisiny warmth. Covering just so many areas of the flavour
spectrum, this is a wine for contemplation. 96/100 (JG)
Blandy's Terrantez 1980 Brown orange
hue. Very potent, moderately oxidized nose of salted almonds,
hazelnuts. The palate is delicate and silken, graceful and elegant,
but with this potent concentration through an exceptional length.
The ideal combination of slim and powerful. 95/100 (TR)
Blandy's Terrantez 1977 Madeira, Portugal
Rich and raisiny on the nose with a sweet fudge and date edge. The
palate has real elegance with some sweetness, but also beautifully
integrated acidity. This is harmonious, dense and rich in style with
a spicy intensity and a long finish. So impressive. 95/100 (JG)
Blandy's Terrantez 1977 Deep brown
orange hue. Richer and rounder in the mouth with nut butter, golden
raisins, subtle woods, orange oil and nuts. Oxidized, with a
slightly off nut character, though remains fine and graceful on the
concentrated palate, though the lengthy finish. 92/100 (TR)
Blandy's Bual 1966 Madeira, Portugal
Rich, sweet, spicy and vivid with raisins, casks and nuts. Broad and
mouthfulling with lovely richness and intensity. Lively and bright
with a vigorous, citrussy, raisiny finish. Mellow, mature and
complex. 95/100 (JG)
Blandy's Terrantez 1977 Deep brown orange hue. Richer and rounder in the mouth with nut butter,
golden raisins, subtle woods, orange oil and nuts. Oxidized, with a
slightly off nut character, though remains fine and graceful on the
concentrated palate, though the lengthy finish. 92/100 (TR)
Blandy's Terrantez 1977 Deep brown
orange hue. Richer and rounder in the mouth with nut butter, golden
raisins, subtle woods, orange oil and nuts. Oxidized, with a
slightly off nut character, though remains fine and graceful on the
concentrated palate, though the lengthy finish. 92/100 (TR)
Blandy's 50 Years Malmsey NV Madeira, Portugal Complex, mellow nose of old libraries, fudge, tar and honey. There's a
bit of tea leaf here as well. The palate is sweet and mellow, and
incredibly concentrated with a creamy texture and very rich raisin
and old wood characters. Notes of wax and leather on the finish.
Just lovely. 96/100 (JG)
Blandy's Malmsey 50 Year Old Potent and
concentrated, this wine is all about the savoury, umami notes,
balancing out the remaining sugar. Earthy, mushroom, stock and dried
mushrooms, with roasted hazelnuts and walnuts, mineral salts and
ample spices through the exceptional length. 95/100 (TR)