Doda/Dado
vertical tasting: Dão meets the Douro
A
chance to taste all the vintages of this collaborative project
between Dirk Niepoort and Alvaro Castro

One of Portugal’s most interesting wines is actually a
multi-region blend. Doda (from 2000–2004 know as Dado, but forced
to rename itself for legal reasons) is a collaboration between Dirk
Niepoort and Alvaro Castro, two of Portugal’s great
winemakers.
50% of it comes from Niepoort in the Douro
(it’s a similar blend to Redoma), and 50% from Castro in the Dão.
It continues a historical tradition of multi-region blending in
Portugal: many of the great old table wines were Barraida/Dão
blends.
This was a great opportunity to try all the vintages to date, with
both Dirk and Alvaro at Alvaro’s restored Quinta de Pellada in the
Dão. These are really super wines, showing precision and finesse,
and they’re among my favourite offerings from Portugal. They knock
on the head the idea that the best wines are always from single
vineyards.
THE
WINES
Dado 2000
The first vintage. Refined with some earthy evolution. Spice and
plums, with good structure. Fine grained with hints of earthiness
– a stylish wine. 90/100
Dado 2003
Lovely perfume here: aromatic with bright cherry and violet
notes. Fine, elegant and expressive. The palate has subtle meaty
notes and some spices, along with elegant cherry fruit. Ripe and
expressive. 93/100
Dado 2001
Warm, spicy and aromatic with subtle meaty notes Fine, with nice
warmth and elegance. Fine, spicy, elegant palate with precision and
some earthy notes. Fresh, mineral and profound. 93/100
Dado 2004
Beautiful perfume here: taut, aromatic and fine with notes of
black cherry and meat. Elegant. The palate is fresh and expressive
with lovely elegance and purity. Great acidity here. Fresh,
concentrated and fine, like an elegant Côte Rôtie in style. 95/100
Doda 2005
Fine, fresh, pure liqueur-like fruit on the nose, showing an
elegantly sappy edge. Lively, fine and expressive. Taut, expressive
palate has good structure and acidity with lovely dark cherry fruit
and thrilling purity. 95/100
Doda 2007
Very fine and pure with elegant aromatic black cherry fruit.
Lovely structure and acidity with firmness and some grip; it’s
youthful, with fresh, bright, sweet black cherry fruit. 94/100
Doda 2008
Fine and pure with lovely freshness. Meaty, spicy, pure black
cherry fruit. Lovely. Dense, firm and expressive with lovely purity
and structure. So refined with lovely precision. Great wine. 95/100
See
also:
Dirk
Niepoort: a profile
Visiting
the Dao region
Wines
tasted 03/11
Find these wines with wine-searcher.com
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