The
new classic wines
Exciting New World wines with the character and complexity of the
best of the Old World
This was one of the most exciting tastings I
have been to in a while. It included some of the New World’s most
interesting wines; wines with just as much interest and complexity
as the very best from the classic Old World regions.
The tasting was organized by Les
Caves de Pyrene, a UK-based importer who began by bringing into
the UK the unfashionable but delicious wines of the Southwest of
France.
In more recent years they have gained fame for
being the leading proponent of natural wines in the UK. For this
reason, their list has had a predominantly Old World feel to it, but
this is now beginning to change.
‘We have been pigeonholed,’ says Doug Wregg
of Les Caves. ‘We want to show that wherever we buy we look for an
expression of terroir, throughout the world.’ He emphasizes that
terroir exists throughout the world. There’s no reason why the Old
World should have a monopoly on interesting wines.
This tasting was a chance to show off the new
world side of Les Caves’ portfolio, which has been growing of
late. The new additions still adhere to the principles that Les
Caves hold dear, such as no acidification or cultured yeasts. But
they explore new territory.
The wines were tasted over lunch at Hibiscus
restaurant in London. In the first instance, all wines were tasted
separately. Then lunch was served with flights of wine accompanying
each course, to see how well they worked with food.
Australia
Sorrenberg Chardonnay2009 Beechworth
Tight, spicy, mineral edge to the nose with some pear and fig notes.
Soft-textured, nutty palate is broad and complex with a keen acidic,
mineral edge to the ripe fruit. Textural and complex with lovely
depth. Profound with a long finish. 95/100
Sorrenberg Gamay 2009 Beechworth
This has 10% Pinot Noir, and 20% of the Gamay is whole bunch
fermented. Sweet, pure nose is very refined with elegant cherry
fruit. The palate has lovely purity of berry and cherry fruit with
some richness and a hint of sappiness. Beautifully elegant with fine
acidity as well as lovely precision, and almost a hint of
chalkiness. 93/100
Castagna Adam’s Rib 2008 Beechworth
70% Nebbiolo, 30% Syrah. Gentle crushing with some destemming,
followed by 18 months in fine-grained French oak, with a small
proportion new. Deliciously meaty, spicy and just ever so slightly
funky, with ripe dark fruits. Lovely meaty elegance, showing some
herbs and a bit of spiciness, as well as interesting structural
elements. Fine yet firm. 92/100
Castagna Una Segreto 2008 Beechworth
60% Syrah, 40% Sangiovese. Lovely fresh, sappy green edge to the
meaty, spicy berry fruits. Nice savoury structure here under the
elegantly ripe berry and cherry fruits. Dense yet harmonious with
smooth fruit and notes of herbs, spice and tar. Nicely fresh with
good definition, as well as a subtle meatiness. There is soul to
this wine. 94/100
Ngeringa JE Syrah 2008 Mount Barker,
Adelaide Hills
Wonderfully pure and aromatic with sweet black cherry fruits.
Fresh, pure palate with a spicy, slightly peppery edge to the pure
berry and cherry fruit. So elegant and pure with grippy, spicy
tannic structure underneath. Great definition here: real potential
for development. 94/100
Ngeringa Rosé 2008 Mount Barker
Textured and nicely sweet with some cherry and herb notes, as
well as some strawberry. Smooth, ripe and quite fine. An interesting
rosé. 90/100
Bindi Composition Pinot Noir 2009 Macedon
Ranges
A 6 hectare vineyard on a 170 hectare family farm, at high
altitude and with a cool climate. Composition is a blend of
different blocks. Supple, sweet cherry and berry fruits nose with a
hint of green herbal character. Nicely fresh and berryish with a
spicy finish. Lively, showing pure cherry fruit and a slight cola
tang on the finish. Some interest here. 91/100
Timo Meyer Close Planted Pinot Noir 2008
Yarra Valley
40% whole bunch ferment. Pale in colour. A beautifully elegant,
textured wine with a nice supple, savoury character: hints of earth,
spice and herbs. Sweet cherry fruit to the fore, here, with a spicy
finish and smooth elegance. A lovely, expressive style. 94/100
New
Zealand
Pyramid Valley Vineyards Riverbrook Riesling
2008 Marlborough
From close-planted vines in the Brancott valley, with 25% botrytised
grapes in the mix. Distinctive, nutty, honeyed, spicy citrussy nose,
with some ripe apple notes. The palate is rounded and textured with
a hint of sweetness, some waxiness and apricot and melon fruit. Real
depth and concentration. Harmonious and mellow. Opulent. 93/100
Pyramid Valley Vineyards Lion’s Tooth
Chardonnay 2009 Cantebrury
Just 50 cases made. Concentrated, dense and bold with rich
nuttiness and some spicy notes. Very lively acidity and a real
mineralic character. Broad textured, with savoury depth, yet still
fresh. A profound, intense experience with a lively, long mineral
finish. 96/100
Pyramid Valley Vineyards Angel Flower Pinot
Noir 2008 Cantebury
10% whole clusters, warm ferment, 12 000 vines/hectare. Pale in
colour and slightly cloudy, with wonderfully pure, sweet aromatics
of sweet cherry fruit with hints of fudge sweetness and warm herbal
notes. The palate is super-smooth and textured, showing sweet fruit
and real elegance. Incredible texture here, with very fine
structure. It’s a wine that is alive and quite thrilling. 97/100
Burn Cottage Pinot Noir 2009 Central Otago
Planted in 2002, this vineyard has been biodynamic since its
inception. 2009 was the first vintage, and the team involved has
been described as a wine ‘supergroup’, including Ted Lemon,
Peter Proctor and Claire Mulholland. The label is an illustration
from a short story by Goethe. 15% whole clusters used. Pure and
intense with lovely fresh, intense, pure black cherry and plum
fruit. Really superb fruit definition with lovely purity and good
structure. There’s also a really nice savoury dimension. Easy to
like, but there’s substance behind the bright fruit. 95/100
Framingham Select Riesling 2009 Marlborough
69 g/l sugar, but it tastes drier because of the high acidity. Very
fresh, pure and textured with lovely citrus fruit character. Lively
and bright in an off-dry style with high acidity. Purity and
intensity here; some lime cordial character. Should evolve nicely.
92/100
Cambridge Road Syrah 2008 Martinborough
From a 3 hectare vineyard. Wonderful white pepper edge to the
bright, fresh, intense berry fruits. Fresh, elegant peppery palate
with bright berry and cherry fruit and great definition. Lively,
expressive and pure with some herb and peppery character. Lovely
wine. 95/100
Testalonga ‘El Bandito’ Chenin Blanc
2009 Swartland
Naturally made with no additions (including SO2) or
filtration. Complex nose: oxidative, nutty, appley. The palate is
complex and lively with amazing acidity and structure, and a
mineral, spicy finish. Really complex in the mouth: textural and
alive. Notes of pear, apple, spice, herbs. Real precision here: a
profound wine. 95/100
The Observatory Red 2004 Swartland
The Carignan (67%) portion of this wine has now been grubbed up;
the remainder is Syrah. Fresh and vivid with nice acidity and lovely
vibrant berry fruits, as well as some subtle meatiness. There’s
nice structure here, with real savoury depth. 93/100
Wines
tasted 06/11
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