Neal
Martin's
celebration bash
Thursday
16 November 2006
Neal and
Tomoko Martin
To
celebrate being hired by Robert Parker and his Wine Advocate publication, Neal Martin convened a celebratory dinner
at The Arches Wine Bar, haunt of a number of wine trade figures. I was
delighted to be invited.
It was my first visit to this hallowed venue (see a
nice article by Andrew Jefford on the Arches, and Harry Gill, its
proprietor, pictured right). There were eight of us, and Neal
almost absurdly generously provided most of the wine, the balance of
which we bought from Harry's wonderful list, with Harry joining us and
contributing a couple of surprise bottles of his own. Most of these
wines were tasted blind.
There was a moment of mini drama, where Neal failed to
locate two rather special bottles he’d planned to include. These
weren’t found (although Neal did locate them the next day), but we
didn’t let this disappointment ruin the evening, which gained pace
towards the end with a flurry of bottles appearing in fast succession.
Neal’s dad even made a guest appearance towards the end.
We
began with two white Burgundies, and then two red Burgundies,
Lafon
Meursault 1er Cru Perrieres 1995 Burgundy, France (Tasted blind)
Really interesting: a bit stinky and reductive, but in a nice way,
with a hint of boiled cabbage and rubber. The palate is spicy, complex
and full with lots of personality. It’s nutty and quite fresh,
showing some evolution. Very good/excellent 94/00
Lafon
Meursault 1er Cru Goutte d'Or 1995 Burgundy, France (Tasted blind)
Honeyed and quite open on the nose, showing fat fruit and just a
hint of oxidiation. There’s a butterscotchy warmth here. Hollows out
a little on the finish, but it’s a nice wine, still. Very
good/excellent 90/100
Christoph
Roumier Rouchottes Chambertin Grand Cru 1991 Burgundy, France (Tasted
blind)
Earthy, spicy, slightly sweet nose – a bit rustic even.
The palate is savoury and earthy with an undergrowthy edge to it.
Serious and quite structured with some age on it. Quite evolved. Very
good/excellent 93/100
Dugat-Py
Charmes Chambertin Grand Cru 2001 Burgundy, France (Tasted
blind)
Modern and full with rich, bright, powerful fruit.
Slightly earthy, with lots of tannic structure. A bold modern-styled
red Burgundy. Very good/excellent 91/100
Joel
Hopwood, Alex Hunt and Neal
A
pause in proceedings for two wines generously contributed by Harry
Gill
Zind
Humbrecht Herrenweg Turckheim Pinot Noir 1989
(Tasted
blind)
A rarity: a red wine from Zind Humbrecht. I think this vineyard has
now been replantedBig, rich and ripe, but also harbouring some green,
medicinal characters. Sweet and rich with some evolution, but the
greenness is a distraction. Very good+ 86/100
Valandraud
1994 St Emilion, Bordeaux (Tasted blind)
Soft, smooth nose with a nice minerally edge to it. Refined, ripe and
classy, showing sweet fruit and minerally complexity. The palate is
quite spicy with lovely soft tannic structure and just a hint of
greenness. There’s a bit of chalkiness, too, with some
Bordeaux-style pencil lead character. Very good/excellent 92/100
Then
two Bordeaux, including my first experience with Le Pin
Château Le Pin 1988 Pomerol, Bordeaux, France
Serious
right bank Bordeaux here. Sweet fruit with a smooth earthy edge. The
palate shows more sweet fruit with a bright expressive character and a
bit of leafiness. It’s a midweight wine that is fluently expressive,
with a lightness to its personality. Very good/excellent 94/100
Château Lafite-Rothschild Pauillac 1976 Bordeaux, France
Quite
firm, almost medicinal edge to the nose which is a bit smoky and quite
complex. The palate is firm, evolved and quite earthy. Savoury and
full, with nice density and a spicy, drying finish. An old wine
that’s hanging in there quite well. Very good+ 88/100
Joel
Hopwood pours from a magnum of Voerzio
Time
for some Italians, from the Arches’ list
Luciano
Sandrone Barolo Cannubi Boschis 1996
Sweet,
rounded and smooth with good weight and concentration, together with a
mineral streak and sime freshness. Nice tannic structure. Quite
youthful with lovely ripeness of fruit: serious stuff in a modern
style. Very good/excellent 94/100
Luciano
Sandrone Barolo La Vigne 1996
Smooth and expressive with lovely sweet red fruits balanced by
spicy structure and nice smooth tannins. Superbly balanced and quite
elegant. Almost Burgundian: a very stylish wine. Very good/excellent
94/100
Roberto
Voerzio Barolo Sarmassa di Barolo 1998
(magnum)
Fresh, bright nose with a hint of tar. Bright and focused. The palate
is fresh with tarry dark fruits. There’s some firm tannin and a bit
of earthiness. Tight and complex with a long life ahead of it. Very
good/excellent 93/100
Neal's dad
Other
wines:
Château Montelena
1991 Napa, California
Lovely stuff. Dark, a bit herby and leafy, but still quite
full and dense. The palate is concentrated and slightly sweet with a
good density of concentrated fruit with some richness to it. Very
good/excellent 93/100
Château
Filhot 1935 Sauternes, Bordeaux, France
Apricotty, fresh, tangy and lemony – very evolved.
Powerful palate with intense tangy flavours. Complex stuff with real
interest. It certainly has some age on it, but it doesn’t taste like
a 70 year old wine. Very good/excellent 93/100
Jasper Hill Emily's
Paddock Shiraz/Cabernet Franc 2001 Heathcote, Victoria,
Australia
Wild nose of sweet intense fruit with ginger and spice notes.
It’s also a little meaty. The palate is powerful and full with bold,
sweet, savoury flavours, and also a bit of mint. Quite odd stuff, but
I like it – perhaps it suffers in comparison with the distinctly old
world wines it was drunk alongside. Very good/excellent 91/100
Parker
Coonawarra 1996 Australia
Bright blackcurrantly fruit here with some fresh acidity.
A bit tarry, with nice balance. A new world style, but not over the
top. Very good+ 88/100
Wines tasted 11/06
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these wines with wine-searcher.com
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