Montana
Sauvignon Blanc 2008
Latest
release of an iconic wine
The first release of Montana Sauvignon Blanc was in
1979, which puts it at the dawn of history in this, the largest and
most well known of New Zealand’s wine regions. Considering the
impact that Marlborough Sauvignon Blanc has had on the wine world,
it’s amazing to consider that this region didn’t really take off
until the mid-1980s.
New Zealand has a history of wine dating back to 1819,
when the first grape vines were planted by a missionary named Samuel
Marsden in the north of North Island (although there’s no record of
him making wine – you have to wait another 16 years for this). But
until the 1970s, the wine industry didn’t develop much. Indeed, an
early edition of Hugh Johnson’s famous World Atlas of Wine dating
from 1970 doesn’t even mention New Zealand.
Some growth occurred in the 1970s, but then there was a
problem of over-production that resulted in a vine pull. The problem
was that Kiwis generally preferred beer to wine.
It was in 1973 that Montana planted the first
commercial vines of the modern era in Marlborough. Montana founder
Frank Yukich decided that this largely undeveloped sheep farming
region had real potential, and committed to buying a large chunk of
land and then putting vines in. Most of them died, because of drought,
but Yukich persevered, and replanted. The masterstroke was to include
some Sauvignon Blanc, which first went into the ground here in 1976.
Yukich wasn’t the first to try growing Sauvignon in New Zealand -
Ross and Bill Spence, of Matua Valley Wines, had tried in Auckland –
but it was Montana’s version of this variety that can claim to have
started things going. In 1979 the first Montana Sauvignon Blanc was
made.
People began to take note. In 1984, some of the Montana
Sauvignons were shown to the press in the UK. They created a bit of a
storm, and sparked huge interest in the combination of variety and
region. [It was this that led David Hohnen to begin his celebrated
Cloudy Bay winery in 1985.] Ernie Hunter brought his Marlborough
Sauvignon to the London wine fair in 1986, and this also met with
amazement on the part of the trade. From the mid-1980s to the present
the Marlborough region has seen spectacular growth, with 13 811
hectares planed as of 2008, and more to come.
What is special about Marlborough Sauvignon? In short,
it’s simply unique. It’s highly aromatic, with a combination of
green grassy notes and ripe tropical fruit, together with fresh
acidity. Everyone has tried to copy it, and as yet no one has really
succeeded. It’s a dream for winegrowers, because you can crop high
loads without losing quality, and winemaking is about as short and
simple as it comes: press, settle, ferment, fine/filter then bottle.
Almost 30 years on, Montana’s Sauvignon Blanc is not
considered to be one of the top wines from the region, but it remains
iconic. It’s a benchmark example of the style, it has a historical
pedigree, and it is made in large quantities and is available just
about everywhere – so lots of people can experience it. It was one
of my formative wine drinking experiences back in the early 1990s, and
so I retain a sense of affection for the label. And it’s really
important for New Zealand that their big wine companies, such as
Montana (now part of the Pernod Ricard stable) do good work.
Montana
Sauvignon Blanc 2008 Marlborough, New Zealand
A really fresh, vibrant expression of Sauvignon Blanc
with crisp acidity, some green pepper herbiness and just enough
tropical fruit/passion fruit character to give it roundness. A
deliciously bright style that’s really food friendly. 88/100 (£7.99,
available just about everywhere but Asda)
Tasted 09/08
Find this wine with wine-searcher.com
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