The wines
of Mat
Garretson, Paso Robles, California
Mat
Garretson, who started out as a wine retailer in Atlanta, traces his
epiphany as a winemaker to a bottle of Condrieu he was given as a
birthday present back in 1982. Determined to follow his dream, he
relocated to Paso Robles in California’s Central Coast region in
1993, and now makes 14–20 different wines a year, all from Rhône
varieties, in small volumes of 100–800 cases each. Altogether
production is typically 12 000 cases.
As well as making wines, Garretson is actively involved
in proselytizing for the cause of Rhône varieties. In 1991 he formed
the Viognier Guild, and this has since mushroomed into an organization
called the Hospices de Rhône, which hosts an annual event in Paso
Robles that brings together Rhône nuts from around the world. The
three-day bash sees lots of eating, tasting and drinking, and is the
biggest of its kind.
So, to the wines. It would be fair to say that Mat
Garretson’s wines aren’t shy. Indeed, these are big wines, made
from very mature grapes which were presumably picked quite late. The
result is abundant flavour, and in some cases rather high alcohol
levels—but in the context of these wines it seems to work. I like
them a lot. The whites are particularly striking.
UK agent is Playford Ros, and typical retail prices
range from about £13 for the ‘G’ wines, to £20 for the Grenache
and Syrahs.
Garretson G-White 2004 Paso Robles, California
A blend of Viognier and Rousanne, this is pretty far out, but I
really like it. Deep coloured, it has a rich peach and apricot nose
with some spice. The palate is soft, fat and full with lovely weight
and texture. Delicious. 91/100
Garretson G-White 2005 Paso Robles, California
Very intense nose is rich, nutty and shows perfumed apricot and
pear fruit. Viscous, characterful palate showing smooth ripe fruit
with a bit of spice on the finish. Lovely in this very rich style (the
alcohol level is sensible at 13%). 92/100
Garretson ‘The Limoid Cior’ Rousanne 2004 Paso Robles,
California
Deep gold colour. Unusual sweet perfumed nose. The palate is rich
and viscous with nutty, herby, spicy notes and apricot and mandarin
notes, along with hints of tea. This is a really striking, rather
extreme wine that I like a lot. 15/1% alcohol. 93/100
Garretson ‘The Saothar’ 2005 Paso Robles,
California
A varietal Viognier, this has an open, aromatic nose of sweet
herbs, nuts and peach. It’s quite savoury. The palate is thick
textured, showing sweet, rich fruit. Distinctive stuff. 90/100
Garretson ‘The Celeidh’ Rosé 2005 Paso Robles,
California
Red colour, which is kind of dark for a rosé. There’s a nice
spicy edge to the sweet strawberry fruit here. Soft, lush, low acid
style that’s quite forward. Unusual but nice. 89/100
Garretson G-Red 2003 Paso Robles, California
Rich, smooth, sweet nose of dark, spicy fruits. The palate is
smooth and a bit earthy with concentrated red and black fruits.
There’s a bit of minerality on the finish. 91/100
Garretson ‘The Spainnéach’ Grenache 2004 Paso
Robles, California
Smooth, sweet, liqueur-like nose of red fruits. The palate is soft
textured and dense with lovely smooth, sweet red fruits and nice
tannic structure. Remarkable stuff that’s almost over-the-top, but
incredibly friendly and likeable. 16.2% alcohol. 93/100
Garretson ‘The Aisling’ Syrah 2003 Paso Robles,
California
Ripe, sweet, dark nose, with a bit of tar. Dense, soft, spicy and
concentrated on the palate. This is a delicious forward style of red
wine. 92/100
Garretson ‘The Craic’ Syrah 2004 Paso Robles,
California
Sweet, pure liqueur-like dark fruits on the nose, leading to a
palate of smooth, soft, dense fruit. Soft textured with an appealing
spiciness. Finishes almost salty. 15.4% alcohol. 92/100
Wines tasted February and November 2007
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