The
wines of AA Panevino
Sensational natural wines from Sardinia, Italy
Gianfranco
Manca was a baker. He’d taken over his uncle’s bakery, but with
the bakery came some plots of rather neglected old bush vines. Manca
fancied trying his hand with winemaking (after all, yeast is common
to both bread and wine), and in addition to restoring the old vines
he planted some new vines.
Panevino
translates ‘bread wine’, and in 2005 Manca released the first
wines from this new project, based on 5 hectares of vines. The vines
are farmed naturally, with just a bit of sulphur used for mildew
prevention, and no fertlilizers. Winemaking is done very naturally.
The wines are simply brilliant.
Alvas
Bianco 2008 Sardinia
A blend of Retallada, Nurasas, Vernaccia, Semiano, Malvasia and
Nasco, grown on schist soils and given a lengthy maceration (18
days). This is a thrilling white wine that combines power and
elegance. Orange colour. Warm, spicy, rich and lovely with citrus
peel notes on the nose. The palate is powerful with good acid,
grippy tannins and flavours of pear, spice and nuts. Finishes dry.
Lovely wine. 93/100
Tankadeddu
Rosso 2008 Sardinia
From young vines; Canonau, Monica and Carignan. Lovely sweet
nose is pure with powerful dark cherry fruit. Very stylish. The
palate is hauntingly elegant with pure, sweet, beguiling fruit.
Light but flavourful, with a smooth texture. 94/100
UK
agent: Les Caves de Pyrene. Approximate retail prices £25 for
white, £18 for red.
Wines
tasted 04/10
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