The
wines of Isabel
Ferrando, Domaine St Préfert, Châteauneuf du Pape
Website:
http://www.st-prefert.fr/index_1280_e.htm
I
was excited to taste this line-up from Châteauneuf
du Pape newcomer Isabel Ferrando. I don’t think I’ve ever tasted
such an exciting set of wines from the Southern Rhône: these show
wonderful elegance and purity, alongside remarkable complexity.
Isabel
was previously a banker with Credit Agricole, and only purchased her
15 hectares of vineyard in 2003 (initially 13.2 hectares, but
subsequently two more have been added), which was her first vintage.
Prior to becoming a winegrower she gained experience with a number of
winemakers, citing Henri Bonneau as her biggest influence. ‘Prefer
my wines to be elegant and feminine, like those of Bonneau’, she
reveals. ‘He’s the most intelligent in the vineyards and the
cellar: he doesn’t interfere much, but he understands’.
Taking
on the domaine in 2003, Isabel didn’t have time to do anything
differently in the vineyards with this vintages, but in subsequent
vintages she has worked organically and even biodynamically, although
she isn’t certified. In terms of wine quality, she’s hit the
ground running. I’ll stick my neck out: these wines are right at the
top of the appellation, and can sit with the best.
Just
a comment with respect to scores: I've noticed this with the Douro
wines I've reviewed, but it applies to all new domaines - without a
'history', it's as if reviewers sit on the fence a bit, and are afraid
to give high ratings from the outset. But if the wines merit it, they
should be awarded top ratings irrespective of the reputation of the
producer. Critics need to trust their own judgment and listen less to
others, and take less account of reputations. I think these are
stunningly good wines.
Domaine St Préfert Châteauneuf du Pape
Blanc 2006 (cask sample)
Hard to assess now, but this concentrated white is tight, spicy and aromatic with real
richness to the palate.
Domaine St Préfert Châteauneuf du Pape
Blanc 2005
Rich, spicy, toasty and aromatic. The full, smooth palate has a really
nice texture and weight. Quite complex. Very good/excellent 91/100
Domaine St Préfert
Réserve
August Favier 2004 Châteauneuf du Pape
A blend of Grenache and Cinsault. Wonderfully sweet, smooth
elegant nose of ripe, pure red fruits. The palate shows lovely
richness and elegance with smooth, sweet fruit and nice savoury
structure. Excellent 95/100
Domaine St Préfert
Colombis 2004 Châteauneuf
du Pape
Grenache only, from sandy soil. Sweet, smooth ripe nose is really
elegant. The palate has really lovely soft, balanced sweet fruit with
a bit of spicy tannin. It’s a really smart, expressive Grenache.
Very good/excellent 92/100
Domaine St Préfert
Collection
Charles Giraud 2004 Châteauneuf du Pape
Grenache and 40% Mourvèdre. Beautifully sweet, perfumed nose
with aromatic, liqueur-like fruit and a smooth, dusty, spicy twist.
The palate is concentrated but elegant with lovely sweet fruit backed
up by smooth spicy tannin. Very
good/excellent 93/100
Domaine St Préfert
Réserve August Favier
2003 Châteauneuf du Pape
Hmmm, this is interesting. Tea-like, earthy expressive nose is complex
and thrilling. The palate is smooth, elegant and expressive with a
lovely earthy, spicy character. Profound. Very good/excellent 94/100
Domaine St Préfert
Collection Charles Giraud
2003 Châteauneuf du Pape
Sweet, ripe, complex and earthy: beautifully aromatic. The palate is
sweet and expressive with wonderful complexity and a lovely earthy
character. Excellent 95/100
Availability
in the UK: Richards Walford (UK agents)
Wines tasted
01/07
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these wines with wine-searcher.com
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