Malatinszky, Villany, Hungary

The wines of Malatinszky, Villány, Hungary
Reviewing the wines of one of the Villány region's most celebrated wineries

Website: www.malatinszky.hu

Csaba Malatinszky (pictured above) is one of Hungary’s most celebrated winegrowers. I met up with him twice to taste his wines, the first time in Budapest at the VinCe event, and then later in Canada, at the i4C Chardonnay symposium.

He started off as a sommelier, then opened a high-end wine shop, and after getting overseas experience at some well-known wineries started his own winemaking operation. His winery, founded in 1997 (he first made wines in the region in 1994), is in Villány-Siklós, and he draws on 30 hectares of grapes.

The wines are very good, although there is a tendency in Villany to make reds that are a little too ripe and oaky. Csaba's reds can be quite big, but he shows some restraint, and I particularly liked the Cabernet Franc. He does very well with Chardonnay.

Date of tasting is indicated in month/year format.

THE WINES

Malatinszky Noblesse Chardonnay 2009 Villány, Hungary
Very fresh, nutty and fine with subtly toasty citrus fruit, but also some bolder, richer notes, too. I like the combination of the lively, precise fruit with the sweet, ripe notes. 93/100 03/13

Malatinszky Le Sommelier Chardonnay 2011 Villány, Hungary
Rounded and nutty with some mealy notes and a bit of spiciness. A lively wine. 90/100 07/13

Malatinszky Noblesse Chardonnay 2009 Villány, Hungary
Lovely weight of pear, spice and peach with nice weight and some citrussy notes. Ripe and quite dense but lively at the same time. 92/100 07/13

Malatinszky Serena 2011 Villány, Hungary
An unusual blend incorporating Chardonnay and Riesling with a touch of Muscat Ottonel. This has lovely aromatics with sweet melon, citrus and pith. Textured, open palate is rich and sweetly fruited with lovely melon, pear, peach and grape notes. 92/100 03/13

Malatinszky Noblesse Pinot Bleu 2007 Villány, Hungary
A clever blend of Pinot Noir and Kekfrankos. Sweet and warm with rich, spicy berry fruits and a bit of grip. Tannic and spice with some rusticity. 89/100 03/13

Malatinszky Kuria Cabernet Sauvignon 2008 Villány, Hungary
Lifted berry fruits nose with a hint of apple. Lively, spicy palate with sweet, open fruit. A little volatile, finishing grippy. 84/100 03/13

Malatinszky Kuria Kövesfőld 2009 Villány, Hungary
A blend of Cabernet Sauvignon and Cabernet Franc. Rich, warm, spicy nose. The palate shows bold spicy fruit with some freshness. Grippy structure under the sweet berry fruits. Bold, characterful wine. 89/100 03/13

Malatinszky Kuria Cabernet Franc 2009 Villány, Hungary
Ripe, rich and dense. Quite tannic and bold with nice spicy grip under the vivid black cherry fruit. Some blackcurrant and tar notes, too. Nicely structured. 91/100 03/13