The
wines of Gerovassiliou, Greece
One of Greece's top producers, from Epanomi in Halkidiki
Website:
www.gerovassiliou.gr
Evangelos
(Vangelos) Gerovassiliou had been working as winemaker at well known
Greek estate Château Carras, when in 1981 he decided to revive his
family’s small 2.5 ha vineyard and begin making his own wines,
with the first one released in 1986. It’s located in the Epanomi
subregion of Halkidiki, not far from Thessaloniki. The vineyard has
since been expanded and is now 56 hectares, enough to supply all the
domaine’s needs.
One
focus here has been the white variety Malagousia. It’s an ancient
Greek variety that almost became extinct. 30 years ago an agronomist
called Professor Logothetis, who was a collector of rare, ancient
varieties, took a cutting from somewhere in Northwest Greece and it
was planted at Château Carras, where Vangelos was working.
At
the time Carras were exploring the potential of different varieties
with the help of Logothetis, and Vangelos vinified the grapes from
some 23 different varieties in his trials. He recognized the
potential of Malagousia, so when he started his own domaine he
planted in as one of his key white grapes, along with Assyrtiko and
foreign varieties Viognier, Chardonnay and Sauvignon.
Vangelos
has since also partnered with fellow winemaker Vassilis Tsaktsarlis
to found Biblia Chora.
THE
WINES
Gerovassiliou
Malagousia 2008
Highly aromatic with notes of peach, pear and citrus, as well as
some mineral notes. The palate has lovely weight of fruit, with real
presence and some minerality. A very stylish white. 91/100
Gerovassiliou
Viognier 2007
Barrel-fermented, spending five months in oak. Vanilla and ripe
pear nose is aromatic and intense. Rich and toasty. The palate is
viscous but still fresh with nuts and pears. Warm, textured and
amazing. 92/100
Gerovassiliou
Avaton 2006
A red blend. Sweet dark fruits nose is pure, modern and intense
with blackberry and spicy oak. The palate is focused and dense with
concentrated, rich ripe fruit. Very bold with lovely purity, good
structure and some new oak. Stylish modern style. 90/100
Gerovassiliou
Syrah 2006
Sweet, focused and quite rich with pure red berry fruit framed
by oak. The palate is fresh, fruit-driven and intense with pure ripe
berry fruits combined with vanilla/new oak. 89/100
Gerovassiliou
Malagousia Late Harvest 2004
Viscous and grapey with a herby edge. Bold and intense with lots
of sweetness and some sherbet notes. A bit syrupy. 86/100
Wines
tasted 04/09
An
earlier tasting (01/07):
Gerovassiliou
Malagousia 2006 Epanomi
There's a
smooth, minerally complexity to the nose, which is bold with good
fruit. The palate has lovely bright complex melon and herb fruit.
Quite a fascinating style with some minerality on the finish. 91/100
(£10.99)
Gerovassiliou
Estate White (Assyrtiko/Malagousia) 2006
The Assyrtiko in
this blend is mostly grown in Santorini. Lovely, vivid, intense
herbal nose which is limey and aromatic, but melony too. Attractive
zippy palate with fresh acid, and lovely balance and weight. Great
fruit intensity. 89/100 (£9.49)
Gerovassiliou
Viognier 2005 Epanomi
Fantastic nose:
peachy, rich and nutty, with some vanilla, bread and toast notes
from the oak. This is beautifully perfumed. The palate is rich but
fresh with really expressive fruit. Bold, peachy and rich. Quite
brilliant. 94/100 (£13.99)
Gerovassiliou
Chardonnay 2005 Epanomi
Complex, refined
nose which is a bit nutty, but at the same time herby and quite
fresh. The palate is fresh and expressive with rich, complex fruit
and well integrated oak. A really super Chardonnay with some spice,
too. Good balance. 92/100 (£14.99)
See
also:
An
older report on the wines of Gerovassiliou
Lyrarakis,
Crete
Published
12/10
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