German wines at Fortnum & Mason
Famous Piccadilly department store Fortnum &
Mason has recently been working hard on its new range, with some
significant additions, and a remarkable own-label range which features
many of the world’s great winemakers.
In the course of researching a piece on German wines
for the Fortnum & Mason magazine, I caught up with wine
buyer/manager Tim French (pictured above) to look at some of their German range. Here
are my notes, together with some of Tim’s comments. We looked at
wines from three different producers who have all contributed an own
label wine, each from a different region.
Robert Weil, Rheingau
Fortnum’s Riesling Kabinett Trocken 2006 Rheingau £15.50
The Rheingau is one of the
great regions of
Germany
, and this is the ultimate modern Hock, with a lovely aromatic nose of
sweet lemon and melon fruit, backed up by some minerality. The palate
is lively and dry with crisp acidity and appley, lemony fruit. Dry but
quite rich, with a slight spritz to it. ‘These wines have a great
backbone of acidity’, says Tim, ‘and although this has a richness
to it, it is dry. It can be used with foods in the same way as a white
Burgundy
’. 91/100
Robert
Weil Riesling Spätlese 2006 Rheingau £21.50
This has a deep herby, honeyed nose with a bit of limey intensity. It is
very rich, concentrated and sweet, with viscous lime and melon fruit.
Lovely spicy acidity kicks in to keep it fresh. ‘The acidity and
sugar balance is far more apparent here’, says Tim. ‘There are big
levels of richness, but it is so fresh underneath. This is a great
aperitif wine: a pick-me-up after work; a perfect first glass of the
evening’. 93/100
Robert Weil Kiedricher Gräfenberg Riesling Auslese 2004
Rheingau (Half) £32.50
From one of the great vineyards of the Rheingau, this is a simply
stunning expression of sweet Riesling. It has a beautifully pure,
fresh, intense nose that’s powerful with some sweet melony fruit and
fresh spiciness. The palate is intense and concentrated with bold
fruit bolstered by high acidity. Expressive and complex. ‘This has
everything the Spätlese has, but it is magnified’, enthuses Tim.
‘It’s very luscious and opulent, with huge honeyed
concentration’. 95/100
Max
Ferd Richter, Mosel
Saar
Ruwer
Fortnum’s
Graacher Dompropst Riesling Kabinett 2004 Mosel
Saar
Ruwer £9.75
The Mosel is the most famous of
Germany
’s vineyard areas, and this Kabinett has a fresh mineralic nose with
some lemon and herb notes. The palate has nice breadth and richness,
with some sweet melony fruit that’s countered by crisp acidity.
It’s just off-dry. ‘This is the perfect summer picnic Riesling’,
says Tim. ‘A great wine to introduce people to the
Mosel
with’. 91/100
Max Ferd Richter Brauneberger Juffer Sonnenuhr Riesling Spätlese
2004 Mosel Saar Ruwer £11.50
Moving up in sweetness, this has a lovely complex
limey, minerally nose with some honeyed notes. The palate is fresh
with some nice broad appley fruit and good acidity. There’s lovely
freshness allied to sweetness. ‘You could use this before or after
dinner’, says Tim. ‘It has enough sweetness to match a delicate
pudding such as a lemon tart.’ 92/100
Max Ferd Richter Brauneberger Juffer Sonnenuhr Riesling
Auslese 2003 Mosel Saar Ruwer £18.50
A complex, limey, fresh, minerally nose leads to a
palate that is sweet and melony with a lovely vibrant citrus
freshness. Once again, there’s a lovely contrast between the sweet,
almost viscous fruit and the minerally acidity. ‘You can feel the
warmth of the vintage coming through’, explains Tim. 93/100
Horst Sauer, Franken
Fortnum’s Escherndorfer Lump Silvaner Spätlese Trocken
2006 Franken £14.50
The final producer in this
short line up is Horst Sauer, from the less well known region of
Franken, where the wines come in a flattened flagon-shaped bottle
known as a Bocksbeutel. And
this wine is made from the Silvaner variety, not Riesling. ‘Silvaner
is often a workhorse variety’, explains Tim, ‘but in Franken it
often hits the heights. I sell this as an alternative to Grand Cru
Chablis: it has more honeyed character than a Chablis, but it can be
used in a similar way. It goes well with smoked fish, and my dream
combination is with smoked eel.’ This wine shows lovely fresh,
forward melony fruit, with an appealing minerally, spicy character
alongside the honeyed melony richness. Beautifully expressive, and dry
in style. 91/100
Horst
Sauer Escherndorfer Lump Riesling Trockenbeerenauslese 2001 Franken
(50cl) £65.00
Finally, an incredible sweet wine made with late-harvested, nobly rotten
Riesling grapes. A golden/orange colour, this is very intense and
sweet with notes of caramel, raisins, apricot and marmalade. It shows
incredible concentration, immense sweetness, high acidity and a finish
that is verging on the eternal. ‘This stands up against any of the
great sweet wines of the world’, enthuses Tim. ‘It’s different
from Sauternes, but the quality is every bit as good. It’s figgy,
quincy
and there are all sorts of candied fruits. The acid backbone is
critical to the balance of the wine’. 97/100
Article published November 2007
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