Via S Spirito 11, 50125
Firenze, Italy
This large Tuscan firm owns some 800 ha of vineyards, but despite
its large size I was deeply impressed by this line up of wines, which was
universally of a very high standard. And I was taken by surprise a
bit: I wasn't expecting these wines to be this good! They range from
the more-traditional-styled Nippozano and Montesodi, to the more modern
Luce, Lucente and Lamaione. Something for everyone.
Nippozano Riserva DOCG Chinati Rufina 1997
Lovely stuff: ripe and complex. Sweet herby nose is open and exotic.
Herby, leathery, Cherry-laced palate with sweet fruit, and great
balance and concentration. Very good/excellent (Postscript: I
bought a couple of these from Oddbins, and when tasted at home I rated
them just as very good+; they were a bit closed. Having said this, the
Oddbins store in question does get very warm in the summer, so these
might have been heat affected. Bottle variation or palate variation?
It's a complex business.)
Montesodi DOCG Chianti Rufina 1997
Lovely dusty, spicy herby nose. Dry tannins and dusty complexity
on the palate; ripe and lovely. Very good/excellent
Momoreto IGT Toscana Cabernet Sauvignon 1997
A single vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon. Deep red/black colour with a
lovely spicy blackcurrant nose. Rich powerful palate with ripe black
fruit: spicy and rich. Delicious stuff. Very good/excellent
Castelgiocondo DOCG Brunello di Montalcino 1995
A Sangiovese from a single estate, this is a real stunner. Lovely
nose of smoke and tarry fruit. Quite special. Ripe, spicy and tannic
on the palate, with warm, rich flavours. Excellent (Oddbins stock this
at £18.99)
Lucente 1997
80% Sangiovese, 20% Merlot, from the Castelgiocondo estate. A
second wine to Luce. A concentrated red/purple colour this is a
youthful wine, with notes of cherries, herbs and tar dominating the
nose. Firm and tannic on the palate, this needs some time. Very good+
Luce 1997
A much-hyped venture with Mondavi, this is mostly Sangiovese from
the Castelgiocondo estate. Deep red/purple in colour, with a lovely
open nose of herby, sweet fruit and smoke. The palate displays complex
ripe fruit and firm tannins; it's a very impressive wine with great
potential, and perhaps worth a bit of hype. Excellent.
Lamaione IGT Toscana Merlot 1997
Concentrated red/black in colour, this has a knockout exotic nose
of sweet ripe fruit and menthol. On the palate the sweet, dense fruit
is backed up by considerable tannin. Bold, sweet, exotic and complex;
very modern-styled. Excellent (Oddbins have this at about £17)