New
Douro 2004 tasting
The wines
of Quinta
do Vale Dona Maria
Apartado 2508, Afurada, 4400-408 Vila Nova de Gaia,
Portugal
Tel +351 22 374 43 20
Website: www.quintadovaledonamaria.com
E-mail: cvanzeller@mail.telepac.pt
Christiano
van Zeller with a plastic model of Jorge Borges' head on his
shoulder
After
running Quinta do Noval, Christiano Van Zeller purchased Quinta do
Vale Dona Maria in 1996. The inaugural wine he made this vintage
was one of the first of the New Douro wines I tried, although the
first official vintage according to the records was 1997. The
vineyard – initially 15 hectares, but supplemented with an extra
five in recent years – is situated in the Rio Torto valley, and
has typical mixed varieties with some old vines.
Winemaking
is in the hands of Sandra Tavares (of Pintas fame) who works
alongside Christiano, and the wines are made in a modern (but not
too modern style), with forward fruit, some elegance and good
concentration. Compared with many other top Douro wines, they
represent very good value for money. In 2003 a new premium wine,
CV, was added to the portfolio. Casal de Loivos is a spectacular
manor house (now a hotel) high above Pinhão: Christiano makes the
wines from this vineyard.
Quinta
do Vale Dona Maria 2004
Open, pure, aromatic nose showing sweet red and black fruits.
The palate is concentrated with supple, sweet fruit. Good
definition here: a modern style but not overdone. Attractive, soft
and forward. Very good/excellent 92
Curriculum
Vitae (CV) 2004
Sweet, dark, tarry spicy nose with ripe, slightly chocolatey
fruit dominating. The palate is concentrated, rich and quite
tannic, with lovely fruit quality. It’s a fruit-driven wine in a
modern style, with some oak showing. Very good/excellent 91/100
Casa
Casal de Loivos
From a vineyard at 350 m, on top of a hill, which is difficult
to ripen in some years (in 2002 they didn’t bother picking it).
Nicely perfumed nose with bright, open red fruits. Aromatic and
quite elegant. Lovely freshness and definition to the red fruits
on the palate. Bright and expressive with good acidity. Very
good/excellent 93/100
See
also: Earlier report on
this Quinta
Back
to New Douro 2004 tasting
Wines tasted 05 and 07/06
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