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The
wines of Vignoble Daumas Gassac, Haute Valée du Gassac, 34150
Aniane, France This famous Languedoc estate occupies an important place in the history of French wine. Back in the 1970s Mas de Daumas Gassac showed the world that serious wine could be made in the Languedoc, which at that time was fully given to plonk production. Lots of plonk is still made in this enormous region, but in the wake of Daumas Gassac a sizeable band of quality producers have emerged, making high-quality authentic expressions of various Languedoc terroirs. In recent years, Daumas Gassac has been rather eclipsed by
some of the new stars. Has quality slipped here, or have others just
done better? It is hard to say. These wines are tight and tannic in
their youth, but as proved by the 1986 and 1988 vintages, they do age
well, developing complexity on the way. They are not ‘big’ wines,
although this is no bad thing; nor are they in an ‘international
style’, which is a relief. Unusually for Languedoc wines, Cabernet
Sauvignon is the key grape here. I’m not sure that Cabernet is ideal
for the Languedoc. It sometimes has a tendency to greenness, and
there’s a danger that the tannic structure never quite softens
enough before the fruit recedes completely. But I suspect the 1998
will be lovely in 15 years time. Total vineyard area is 40 ha (estate is 80 ha in all),
surrounded by a forest. It’s based on a historic ‘terroir’ that
was rediscovered in the 1970s by Henry Enjalbert, a professor of
geography. The upper Gassac valley enjoys a cool microclimate, and the
vineyards have been created in 50 small plots amidst the surrounding
garrigue. Viticulture is organic. For the red wines 80% of the grapes are Cabernet Sauvignon,
with the remainder a fascinating melange of Malbec, Merlot, Cabernet
Franc, Syrah, Tannat, Pinot Noir, Nebbiolo, Grenache, Tempranillo,
Voskehat (Armenia), Kontorni (Armenia), Salte (Syris) and some
Georgian varieties. [Aside: wouldn’t it be fun to try a varietal
Voskehat, or a Languedoc take on Salte? There’s an idea.] The white is also highly-rated. It’s supposed to age well,
but I think I prefer it in its youth. Decide for yourself! It’s a
blend of Viognier, Petit Manseng and Chardonnay (25% of each), with
the remaining quarter made up of grape varieties from Georgia,
Armenia, Madeira and elsewhere. Mas de Daumas Gassac Red 1986 Vin de Pays d'Oc Mas de Daumas Gassac Red 1988 Vin de Pays d'Oc Mas de Daumas Gassac Red 1998 Vin de Pays d'Oc Mas de Daumas Gassac White 2001 Vin de Pays d'Oc Mas de Daumas Gassac White 1995 Vin de Pays d'Oc |