The
wines of
Domaine
Daubrée, Côte-Rôtie, Northern Rhône
Martin and Lucette Daubrée have a small domaine with just 6
ha of vines. Currently only 2 ha are in production – a mature
vineyard on the Côte Brune – with the other 4 ha, at Corps de Loup,
currently being replanted. The wines are generally impressive, and I
was particularly taken by the 1999, which is close to perfect. House
style here favours elegance and terroir expression, surely a good
thing in this age of international-style taste-alike wines. When you
have an appellation with such potential and character as Côte-Rôtie,
it seems almost criminal to mask the wines with excessive new oak and
over-extraction.
UK availability: OW Loeb (www.owloeb.com)
Domaine Daubrée
Côte-Rôtie 1998
Distinctive meaty, green olive nose is perfumed and very savoury.
Good typicity. The palate is midweight, savoury and meaty with good
acidity. Not a big wine but an expressive one. Very good/excellent
Domaine Daubrée Côte-Rôtie 1999
Almost perfect nose: ripe, perfumed and with meaty, green olive
notes. The palate is savoury and intense with good acidity and firm,
savoury tannins. Very expressive. Excellent
Domaine Daubrée Côte-Rôtie 2000 (cask sample)
Quite subdued, gently spicy nose, with a touch of meatiness. Midweight,
lightly spiced palate with some tannin. A light style. Very good+
Domaine Daubrée Côte-Rôtie Côte Blonde 2001 (cask
sample)
For the first time in 2001 Martin Daubrée is bottling his Côte
Blonde and Brune wines separately. This has a warm, ripe, spicy nose.
The palate is quite chunky and spicy with good acid. Nice enough but
fails to hit the heights. Very good (£179 ib)
Domaine Daubrée Côte-Rôtie Côte Brune 2001 (cask
sample)
Firm, spicy woody nose. The chewy, savoury palate is very tannic and
firm. A sinewy wine for keeping. Very good+ (£189 ib)
see
also: tasting notes of Rhône wines; Rhône
2001; spotlight on Côte Rôtie
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