I have a sort of love-hate relationship with
Chardonnay. On the one hand this grape makes some sublime white wines with huge depth of
flavour and stunning complexity; on the other, it produces a sea of bland, technological,
slightly sweet concoctions that hardly merit describing as 'wine'. It's probably also true
that familiarity breeds contempt. Chardonnay is everywhere. It is partly a victim of its
own success: compared with its Burgundy peer, Pinot Noir, which is a fussy traveller,
Chardonnay has travelled throughout the world without complaining. Wherever it is planted
it seems to produce at least passable wines, and given half a chance does very well. It
also adapts to a whole range of winemaking styles. So although I often grow bored with
Chardonnay and seek my white wine pleasures elsewhere (see my article Anything but Chardonnay), I always return. For me, there is no
finer white grape, although some, such as Riesling, come close. So here is a selection of
Chardonnays from across the world that I think effectively state my case. Australia
It's unfair to dismiss Australian
Chardonnays as being big, crude and oaky. Since the 1980s, when some Aussie Chards were
guilty of this charge, winemakers have learned fast. Consequently, premium Australian
Chardonnay represents one of the most consistent and good value of all wines. The
increased plantings of Chardonnay in the early 1990s, when white wines were in vogue, and
the subsequent swing to red grapes, has also helped to keep prices down. At their best,
these wines are full flavoured with complex, ripe fruit and nicely judged oaking. Yum. And
let's not forget the often impressive inexpensive wines made in industrial
quantities -- the likes of Lindemans Bin 65, which is a really attractive wine despite its
large-scale production.
Cape Mentelle
Chardonnay 1998, Margaret River, Western Australia
A full-flavoured, complex wine with a toasty nose of honey and spice, followed up with a
rich, spicy, nutty palate. There's a rich mineralic streak, and the noticeable oak is well
balanced by the intense fruit flavours. Memorable stuff, but drink it now rather than
cellaring it. Excellent. (£11.25 Bentalls)
Wirra Wirra Chardonnay 1998,
McLaren Vale, Australia
Made from small batches of fruit, some of which were fermented in new French oak, some in
1 year old French oak and some in stainless steel. Lovely smoky/toasty nose gives way to
rich fruit on the palate, with figgy, buttery and mineralic notes. Pure and complex, this
is superb stuff, without too much oak. Excellent. (£9.99 Waitrose)
Shaw and Smith Unoaked Chardonnay
1998, Adelaide Hills, Australia
I'm not normally a fan of the 'unwooded Chardonnay' style of wine, but this is a stunner.
A light gold colour, it has a spicy, honey nose. On the palate it exhibits intense fruit
flavours, with spicy and honeyed complexity coupled with a pronounced minerality.
Excellent. (£9.29, Tesco)
Rosemount Show Reserve Chardonnay
1998, Hunter Valley
A rich, buttery Chardonnay, with toasty oak and honeyed fruit. Sophisticated stuff,
showing good balance and refinement. Very good + (Majestic £9.99)
Lindemans Padthaway Chardonnay 1998
From Padthaway, a relatively cool region in South Australia well known for producing great
Chardonnays. I was really impressed by this wine. Fully barrel-fermented. Deep yellow
colour. Complex fruit flavours combined beautifully with new oak. Rich, intense and
concentrated, with figgy, tropical fruit and spice notes. Superb stuff. Very good +
(Thresher £8.49)
Brokenwood Chardonnay 1998, Hunter
Valley
Mainly McLaren Vale fruit, this spends five months in one year old French oak. Toasty
nose. Soft, rich, peachy, tropical-fruit, spicy wine. Ripe, full and complex. Very good.
(£8.99 Oddbins)
Brokenwood Graveyard Vineyard
Chardonnay 1998, Hunter Valley
This is a single-vineyard Hunter Chardonnay that spends 12 months in new French oak. There
is a huge nose of butterscotch and tropical fruit. Spicy and complex, this superb wine is
concentrated and delicious. Excellent. (£17.99 Oddbins Fine Wine)
Hardys Nottage Hill Chardonnay
1999, SE Australia
Fresh, full flavoured Chardonnay with good balance, attractively put together with just a
touch of oak. Just shaded by Lindemans Bin 65 in this category, but it’s a close
call. (£4.99 widely available)
Lindemans Bin 65 Chardonnay 1999,
Southeast Australia
Served well chilled, this is a delightful, full-flavoured lemony Chardonnay with a touch
of spice and some restrained tropical fruit character. Lightly oaked, with a nice texture.
You can't get much better for a mass produced sub-£5 Chardonnay, and in its genre this is
the best. (£4.99, widely available)
South Africa
At the bottom end, I remain unimpressed by South African white wines, but they are making
real strides with their premium whites, and Chardonnay leads the pack. These wines show
great concentration of flavour, bridging nicely the typical new world and old world
styles.
Danie
De Wet Bataleur Chardonnay 1998, Robertson, South Africa
Remarkably expressive high-end South African Chardonnay, with a full nose of
toasty, nutty barrel-ferment character and a concentrated palate of lemony fruit, minerals
and high acidity. Despite the new oak, this wine is not at all fat: I suspect it was not
allowed to undergo full malolactic fermentation, and the resulting bright acidity really
brings this complex wine to life. Very good/excellent (£12, Fortnum and Mason)
Warwick Estate Chardonnay 1999,
Stellenbosch, South Africa
Rich, intense, nutty and toasty Chardonnay with a dense, mineral-laced palate and high
acidity. This is a huge savoury wine that represents excellent value for money. Really
interesting, perhaps a little rough round the edges for some. Very good + (£6.99,
Waitrose)
Graham Beck 'Lonehill' Chardonnay
1998, Robertson, South Africa
100% barrel fermented in a mix of new and second fill French oak. A rich,
concentrated wine with brisk acidity, well-judged oak and smoky, mineral-laced, nutty
complexity. Very good + (£6.99, Thresher)
Thelema Chardonnay 1998,
Stellenbosch
One of South Africa's most famed Chardonnays, the 1998 vintage is a big but refined wine
that carries its 15% alcohol well. It has a rich nose of toasty oak with a creamy, ripe
character. It's savoury and rich on the palate, with nutty and lemon notes and great
concentration and balance. Overall it is quite soft, with good balancing oak. Very good +
(£11.99 Noel Young)
Plaisir de Merle Chardonnay 1997,
Paarl
A very modern South African Chardonnay that almost gets it right. Light textured, subtle,
but with noticeable toasty oak, this is a fresh Chardonnay with some bottle age. Lean and
balanced in character, but a bit light in texture and fruit to carry the oak. Good.
(£8.99 Tesco)
De Wetshof Estate Lesca Chardonnay
1998, Robertson, South Africa
A crisp, fresh and full flavoured Chardonnay, with attractive nutty and toasty character.
There is firm acidity, and a slight bitterness on the palate. This is a nice, savoury dry
white with well judged but noticeable oak, which represents good value for money.
Good/very good. (£5.99 Sainsbury)
Italy
Italy has traditionally made Chardonnays in a light, fresh,
high-acid style. However, I've been impressed by a few examples I've recently tried that
have broken this mould.
Lis Neris, Isonzo del Friuli
Chardonnay 1998, Alvaro Pecorari
A real treat, this is an Italian Chardonnay that manages to combine the best of the old
and new worlds. Pale yellow with a full nose. On the palate it has complex, nutty fruit
with mineralic notes and light oak influence. With good concentration of flavour, this is
a rich Chardonnay with real character. (£8.95, Berry Bros)
Chardonnay Castello della Sala
1999, Antinori, IGT Umbria, Italy
Fermented in Franch oak, this is a striking Chardonnay with a pronounced toasty
oak nose. On the palate, the barrel-ferment character combines nicely with savoury fruit
and high acidity. Quite oaky, but very good none the less. (£6.99 Majestic)
Trulli Chardonnay 1998, Salento,
Italy
Golden colour. Nutty, figgy nose gives way to a simple but clean palate with good balance
and acidity. Good and great value, but surprisingly mature, so drink up. (£4.49,
Thresher) 9/00
USA
California Chardonnays have a reputation for being overly
oaky, fat and alcoholic -- and many of them are. In addition, they often represent
exremely poor value for money, and their availability in the UK is not great. In general,
the USA is not a happy hunting ground for Chardonnay fans, although there are good
examples if you hunt hard enough.
Foxen
Tinaquaic Vineyard Chardonnay 1997, Santa Maria Valley, California
From a single vineyard of 10 acres, this estate wine is barrel fermented in new oak and
spends a further 18 months maturing in barrel. It has a full, rich, barrel-ferment nose
and shows great concentration, but it is very, very, very oaky. For hardened California
Chardonnay lovers only. (£18.99, Majestic)
Fetzer Private Collection
Chardonnay 1997 Limited Release, Mendocino, California
I can't make my mind up about this wine. On the one hand, it doesn't fall prey to the
worst excesses of premium Californian Chardonnays, with their blowsy fruit and opulent
oaking: instead, this is restrained yet powerful, almost in a Burgundian mould. On the
other hand, this wine is a rather angular and disjointed, and I'm not sure I actually like
the result: it has good components that don't quite fit together. Subdued, nutty, honeyed
nose with a touch of smoke. Restrained on the palate with lean, savoury complexity, high
acid and great concentration. The high-ish alcohol makes itself known on the finish. A
sophisticated effort, perhaps let down with the finish. Very good. (£9.99, Oddbins) 9/00
Fetzer Barrel Select
Chardonnay 1997, Mendocino, California
Quite evolved, with a toasty oak nose. On the palate this has begun to soften, and is
attractively creamy and oaky. Overall, it is quite a tasty Californian Chardonnay that
needs drinking up soon. (Majestic £7.99)
French Chardonnay
Let's face it, France is the home of Chardonnay, and it still
makes the most complex and compelling examples. But these wines, from the better-sited
vineyards of the Burgundy region, are extremely expensive and made in tiny quantities.
Less expensive Chardonnay from the Mâconnais region of Southern Burgundy can be good
value, and although I've previously been unimpressed by Chardonnay from the south of
France, these seem to be rapidly improving. Interesting fact: Chardonnay has recently been
shown to be the result of a cross between the Pinot Noir and Gouais
Blanc.
Chardonnay Domine Les
Garrigues de Truilhas 1998, James Herrick, Vin de Pays d'Oc
The name comes from the stony soil of the vineyards. Lean on the nose with smoky,
mineral-like characters. Some ripe fruit on the palate, but overall still quite lean, with
more smoky, mineralic notes. Slightly bitter finish. Quite good. (£5.49 Oddbins)
Domaine de La Motte Chardonnay
1998, James Herrick, Vin de Pays d'Oc
10% barrel fermented; 50% malolactic. Concentrated but tight. Light lemon and mineral
laden Chardonnay with some nice smoky/appley notes. Nicely balanced and savoury; quite
delicate. Good. (£6.49 Oddbins) 5/00
Domaine Begude Chardonnay
1999, Comte Cathare, Vin de Pays d'Oc
A light, fresh, lemony Chardonnay. Its appealing, but quite simple. Medium
bodied. Good. (£4.99 Oddbins)
Domaine Valette
Pouilly-Fuissé Clos Reyssie 1995, Burgundy
A mature wine from the most famous of the Mâcon appellations in Burgundy. Golden
colour, with a nose of honey and butterscotch. Rich, honeyed and spicy on the palate with
bright acidity and a touch of caramel. This is an unusual wine; I suspect that the grapes
were harvested late and that there's a bit of oxidation character too; it's certainly
fully mature now, so drink up. Very good in this style. (£5.99 Majestic) 8/00
Domaine Valette
Mâcon-Chaintré 1997 Jeunes Vignes, Burgundy
A tasty, full flavoured, mature Mâcon Chardonnay. Light gold in colour. Quite intense
with a smoky, honeyed nose. Rich and ripe with a sweet finish. Luscious honey and spice on
the palate. Very good, and a bargain. (£5.99 Majestic) 8/00
Henry de Vézelay Bourgogne
Chardonnay 1996
Despite its age, this is still a pale yellow colour. Honeyed, nutty nose is followed with
a classic Bourgogne/Mâcon palate of apples, honey and nuts with piercing lemony acidity
holding it all in good balance. Evolved and quite complex; the bready, toasty character
reminds me of a still vintage Champagne! Good/very good (£3.99 Majestic) 8/00
Verget Tête du Cuvée 1997,
Mâcon, Burgundy
Yellow/gold colour. Subdued nose of honey and nuts, followed by a full palate with bright
acidity and honey, nuts and lemon. It's well balanced and there is some minerally
complexity; a typical mature Mâcon Chardonnay. Good. (£3.99 Majestic) 8/00
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