Champagne,
offline
A remarkable tasting of high end Champagnes
November 29th 2011
This was a fun tasting. A bunch of
internet Champagne geeks got together at the Fish Club (www.thefishclub.com)
on St John’s Hill, near Clapham Junction, to feast on fish and
drink fine Champagne. These events are usually wonderfully informal:
everyone brings one or two good bottles, and we share them. Here are
notes on all the bottles I tasted. You’ll notice that the scores
are in quite a tight band – that’s because the quality of wines
of offer was admirably consistent.
You’ll also see the term ‘Special
Club’ in some of the names. This refers to the Club Trésors de
Champagne (www.clubtresorsdechampagne.com),
which is an alliance of 26 growers who make wine from their own
grapes. The Special Club bottlings are the finest offerings from
these growers, from great years, and have to pass tasting tests as vins
clairs as well as after the ageing process.
Thanks
to Champagne expert Steve Pritchard (pictured above, in red)
for organizing this event.
Jacquesson
Grand Vin Signature 1993 (magnum)
Disgorged
2001. Structured, toasty, taut and alive with powerful citrus fruit
and good structure. Pure, tight and mineral, this begins to show
ripe pear, nut and honey notes as it warms up in the glass. Really
complex and fresh with plenty of life ahead of it. 95/100
Champagne
Jacquesson Avize Grand Cru 1996 (magnum)
Tight,
fresh and lemony with a bit of toastiness. Very 1996 in style with
high acidity. Austere and structured, with some apple and pear fruit
and plenty of development to come, I reckon. 95/100
Champagne
Mailly Grand Cru ‘L’Air’ 2005
Intensely
aromatic, this is a very pure, fruity Champagne with linear fruit
focus and nice brightness. 75% Pinot Noir. 92/100
Champagne
Bereche 2002
Very
rich, intense, toasty style with some oxidative appley notes and
evidence of oak. Rich, assertive and slightly rustic. 89/100
Champagne
José Michel & Fils Special Club 2000
From
Moussy, south of Epernay, this is a blend of 50% Meunier and 50%
Chardonnay. Really fruity and generous with pear and white peach
fruit. Real finesse here: a very bright, fruit-driven wine that’s
quite precise. 93/100
Champagne
Bollinger RD 1997 (magnum)
Disgorged
in April 2008. Profound, complex and toasty with notes of herb and
citrus. Taut and finely structured with a gentle nuttiness. A big,
powerful, in-yer-face style, but manages to combine this power with
finesse. 94/100
Champagne
R Blin & Fils Cuvée Maxime 2002
Toasty,
rich and intense with notes of pear, peach and honey. Powerful style
showing opulence and sweetness, allied to structure. 92/100
Champagne
Joseph Perrier Cuvée Josephine 1998
Taut,
toasty, intense and quite pure with good structure and lovely focus.
94/100
Champagne
Joseph Perrier Cuvée Josephine 2002
Rich,
toasty, lively and citrussy with fresh acidity. Creamy, toasty and
bold, this is an intense style of Champagne, showing rich apple and
pear fruit. 91/100
Champagne
Pierre Gimonnet & Fils Premier Cru Chardonnay Special Club 1998
Bold,
taut and quite dense with nice citrus fruit. Precise style showing
tight citrus character and lovely focus. Very fine. 94/100
Champagne
Larmandier-Bernier Premier Cru Special Club 1998
Tight,
fresh, lemony and quite structured. Lovely complexity here with some
savoury notes and an austere character. 92/100
Champagne
Gosset Grand Rosé NV
Ripe,
sweet and appley with some strawberry character. Fine, toasty and
quite powerful with real finesse and a savoury edge. Nicely complex.
93/100
Champagne
Paul Bara Special Club 2002
Warm,
complex and rounded with nice toasty notes. Rich palate with good
acidity and precise fruit flavours. Very attractive wine. 93/100
Champagne
Dom Perignon Rosé 2000
Very
sweet aromatic nose with rounded apple and cherry fruit. The palate
is herby, complex and open with sweetness and structure. Lovely
vinous fruit quality here, showing cranberry and cherry characters.
So distinctive. Needs time. 94/100
Champagne
Gaston Chiquet Special Club 2002
Fresh,
assertive and fine with citrus and herb notes. Taut with nice
structure. Firm, precise, showing good acidity. 92/100
Taittinger
Comtes de Champagne 1999
Wonderfully
taut and toasty with some biscuitty notes, a touch of vanilla and
lovely rich yet fresh flavours on the palate. Finesse is the key.
Lovely fruit. 93/100
Champagne
Forget-Chemin Special Club 2005 (magnum)
Rich
and quite bold with toastiness to the fore, as well as crisp citrus
notes. Lively character. 92/100
Champagne
J Bassalle Premier Cru Special Club 2000
Complex,
toasty and refined with real finesse combined with richness. Nice
citrus, pear and peach fruit. Impeccable balance. 94/100
Champagne
Vilmart Coeur du Cuvée 1997 (magnum)
80%
Chardonnay. Very rich with a nose showing toast, vanilla and spice.
The palate is concentrated, fresh and edgy with nice complexity.
Sweetness from the dosage works well with the precision and
freshness. Lots of potential for development. 95/100
Oliver
Horiot Coteaux de Champenois Riceys Rouge En Barmont 2006
A
red wine from Champagne. Sweet, supple and smooth with elegant,
natural tasting sweet cherry fruit and some nice mineral notes, too.
Grainy tannins work well with the sweet fruit. Lovely. 93/100
See
also:
Visiting
Champagne Bollinger
Published
12/11
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