France's Languedoc is currently one of the bright spots on the
world wine map, with producers like this offering affordable, tasty
wines that offer something more than just a blast of fruit. Cazal Viel
is that largest privately owned estate in St Chinian (an AC in the
Languedoc about 20 km north of Beziers), with some 135 ha of vines. It’s
been a family-owned estate since the French revolution, the present
generation of Miquels has been making wine here since 1980. A range of
varieties are grown, but they specialise in Syrah (60 ha, vine age
between 20 and 30 years) and Viognier (20 ha). Average yield is 45
hl/ha, and around 75 000 cases of wine are made each year (60 000 red,
15 000 white). The four examples of the range tasted here are solid,
commercial wines, but with enough character and typicity to make them
interesting. In particular the Syrah/Mourvèdre offers very good value
for money, and the Viognier is probably the best I've yet had from the
Languedoc.
Château Cazal Viel St Chinian Vieilles Vignes 1999
Deep red purple colour, with a nose of spicy dark fruits with an
attractive smoky edge. Chewy palate with a leathery, chewy character,
dry tannins, good acidity and nice minerality. Tasty stuff, showing
real typicity. Very good+ (no UK listing at present) 11/01
Château Cazal Viel Saint-Chinian Cuvée des Fees 1999
From calcareous clay soils, this is mostly Syrah with a dash of
press Viognier, and doesn't see any oak. Deep red/purple coloured with
a satisfying earthy, spicy, mineralic nose. The palate shows a good
concentration of juicy, mineral edged fruit with smooth supple tannins
and good acidity. Not a blockbuster, but a satisfying wine showing
lots of southern character and really nice balance. Very good+ (£6.99
Waitrose; £6.49 Somerfield) 11/01
Cazal Viel Viognier Grande Réserve 2000, Vin de Pays d'Oc
(Clay soil, yield 35 hl/ha, matured in a mixture of steel
tanks and new oak barrels.) An attractive wine from trendy grape
Viognier: it's varietally true, with that authentic aromatic peach ,
apricot and slightly burnt rubber nose. Rich, soft-textured palate has
a touch of spice on the finish and relatively low acidity. Tiny bit
'hot', but an interesting and tasty example of this grape. Very good+
(£6.99 First Quench) 11/01
Laurent Miquel Syrah/Mourvèdre 2000 Vin de Pays d'Oc
Quite deep coloured, this wine has an enticing smoky/earthy nose
with a touch of cinnamon. Palate has plenty of savoury, slightly meaty
fruit with a deft touch of tannin. Satisfying stuff, this is quite
impressive for the price. (£4.49 Sainsbury) Very good 11/01