Wine
book reviews
Voodoo vintners: Oregon's astonishing
biodynamic wine growers
By
Katherine Cole (Oregon State University Press 2011)
This is a great
book. You need to ignore the slightly bizarre cover (why the goat?)
and the awkward title ('astonishing'? Really?), because the content
is superb. Katherine Cole writes very well, and this is possibly the
best book on the topic of biodynamic viticulture I've read.
The problem with
biodynamics as a book topic is that such titles tend to be written
by true believers, and their prose usually collapses under the
strain of intense earnestness. Here, Cole brings a light, gently
witty twist to her writing and acts as an astute observer of the
growers in Oregon who are turning to this alternative form of
growing wine grapes.
I particularly
enjoyed her lively and even-handed mini-biography of Steiner, the
founder of the movement. Equally engaging are the accounts of the
rather different wineries and personalities involved in the Oregon
wine scene.
Overall, Cole has
taken on a difficult project - it's hard to write about bioynamics
because of the controversies involved - and has done it really
well.
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