Just finishing off a long, detailed article on the problem of premature ageing of white Burgundies, which began in the mid-1990s. It's for The World of Fine Wine. White Burgundies are so far absent from my nascent Chardonnay trail. I'll have to do something about that. For now, we turn to Chile.

Casa Lapastolle Cuvee Alexandre Chardonnay Atalayas Vineyard 2004 Casablanca, Chile
Powerful stuff, this. Big nose of open, ripe pineapple and melon fruit, with a herbal edge and some nice freshness. It's fruit driven and nicely poised. The palate is bold and concentarted with more of that direct, nicely framed fruit and good acidity. The oak is well in the background (part of the wine was in stainless steel) and melony, herby fruit dominates. A wine with real impact yet some restraint, my only criticism being the high alcohol. Very good/excellent 91/100