Quote of the week so far:
'He doesn't discourage the brett from growing in his cellars. If he did, that would be manipulation. It takes manipulation to prevent or fix VA and Brett.'The US importer of Chateau Musar, praising Serge Hochar's non interventionist approach to wine making, on erobertparker.com.
posted by Jamie @ 8:43 PM
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Wine making is manipulation. What part is not intervention, decision making and manipulation?
Agreed Edward. There is nothing natural about planting perfect rows of grafted vines in the desert, drip irrigating them, crushing the grapes, putting them in oak barrels, etc. The process of wine making is a series of manipulations.
When people talk about natural and manipulation, they are really talking about which methods (somewhat arbitrarily) they have decided are good and which are bad. But they are all manipulations, and none of them are natural. The sooner we recognize this fact, the better.
It's possible to recognize that all winemaking is manipulation, yet at the same time make a case for allowing some manipulations but disallowing others. That's what happens. Where we draw the line, I would argue, is of critical importance.
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