The
wines of Barmès-Buecher,
Alsace, France
Barmes-Beucher
isn’t one of the best known names in Alsace, but it deserves to be.
From the strong 2002 vintage François Barmès has fashioned a strong
line-up of wines, including a brilliant Riesling Grand Cru
Steingrubler and two very impressive examples of Pinot Gris. I’m not
usually a fan of Gewürztraminer, but the two I tasted here were
impressive and balanced. This domaine was formed in the late 1980s and
is run along biodynamic lines, with low yields. Prices are very
reasonable (indicated in brackets, these include duty but I suspect
don't include VAT) – UK agent and retailer is
Gauntley (rhone@gauntleywine.com).
Barmès-Buecher
Pinot Blanc Rosenberg 2002
Delicious wine. Lovely full nose is rounded and fruity, showing a
subtle smokiness. The palate is rounded, rich and fruity with some
nuttiness. Very good+
(£7.77)
Barmès-Buecher
Riesling Grand Cru Steingrubler 2002
Wonderfully rich aromatic, limey nose with a sweet edge. The
palate has a rich texture and lots of fruit, showing a limey, spicy
character on the finish. Medium sweet. Very good/excellent 92/100
(£11.44)
Barmès-Buecher
Riesling Kruett de Wettolsheim 2002
Intense, limey and spicy with good concentration. Quite elegant.
This is dry but with a hint of residual sugar. Very good+ 89/100
(£8.82)
Barmès-Buecher
Pinot Gris Rosenberg Silicis 2002
From the higher part of the Rosenberg slope. Savoury, taut nose
with some spiciness. The palate is rich and fat-textured with good
balance and a creamy mouthfeel. Quite a subtle wine and lovely with
it. Very good/excellent 90/100
(£9.61)
Barmès-Buecher
Pinot Gris Rosenberg Calcarius 2002
From lower down the slope. Minerally, smoky edge to the savoury
nose. Varietally true. The palate is rich and explosive; spicy and
thick textured. Quite a bit of residual sugar here in this deliciously
expressive wine. Very good/excellent 91/100 (£10.02)
Barmès-Buecher
Gewürztraminer Rosenberg 2002
Very perfumed, floral nose showing grapey richness. The palate is
well balanced and concentrated. Quite rich but with good balance and
not too sweet. Very good/excellent 90/100 (£9.48)
Barmès-Buecher
Gewürztraminer Grand Cru Pfersigberg 2002
Quite a delicate perfumed nose. Rich, thick textured palate is
quite dense with a herbal edge to the fruit. Savoury finish. Very
good+ 89/100
(£13.40)
see
also: tasting notes of Alsace wines
Wines
tasted 01/04
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