Spotlight
on Madeira
Barbeito
Barbeito is a family-owned
company formed in 1946, and their philosophy is to offer 100% canteiro
wines, with no added caramel or deacidification. Old French
oak is used. This is authentic Madeira. One of the innovations
that Barbeito has pioneered is bottling single harvest (colheita)
wines in 50 cl bottles. The range was presented by Ricardo De
Freitas, managing director and grandson of the founder, both
formally and then later over dinner at Moro in Clerkenwell.
I asked Ricardo about the wines
from before 1946, which was when the company was formed. It turns
out that these were bought from families on the island with older
stocks. I’m deeply impressed by the Barbeito wines, and the
notes here, compiled from separate tastings (all dated) speak for
themselves. UK agents are Raymond Reynolds.
Tasted
in October 2008:
Veramar
Boal Reserve
Dense, sweet and expressive with bright citrussy notes. Rich
and full bodied. 89/100
'VB'
Verdelho-Boal Lote 1
Complex spicy nose is sweet and full with a lively citrussy,
tangerine-like edge. The fresh lemony palate is lively and
complex. 93/100
Boal
10 Years Old Reserve
Waxy, complex nose is thrilling, nutty and expressive. The
palate is just beautiful, with bright orange and citrus fruits,
together with dried fruits, and some sweetness. 94/100
Malvasia
10 Years Old Reserve
Malvasia is often referred to as Malmsey in Madeira. This is
sweet, fresh and complex with some nutty notes. Bright. 91/100
Sercial
10 Years Old Reserve
Complex, pungent, herby, citrussy, nutty nose. The palate is
fresh, bright and tangy with some citrussy fruit. 93/100
Malvasia
20 Years Old Reserve Lote 7199
Deep, complex, intense nose leads to a super-concentrated,
limey, spicy, broad palate with sweetness and acid in lovely
tension. 93/100
Malvasia
Special Reserve 30 Year Old
Deep orange colour. Madly complex nose is really thrilling,
with orange, lemons, nuts and spice. The off-dry palate is viscous
and super-concentrated with complex spice and citrus characters.
Eternal finish. 95/100
Single
Harvest 1997
Complex, herby, fresh, dense and lively. Delicious. 92/100
Malvasia
Colheita 1994 Single Cask 232c
Very rich, intense and concentrated, with raisin, casky notes,
herbs and citrus. Broad and quite sweet. 93/100
Boal
1982 Fransqueira
Complex nose showing old furniture, spice, nuts and herbs.
Viscous, broad palate wit a nice citrussy finish. Thrillingly
bright and expressive with a crazy long finish. 95/100
Tasted
in May 2004:
Barbeito 1996 Single Harvest
This is made from the Tinta Negra Mole grape, and is the
follow on from the hugely successful 1995. Lovely intense lemony,
spicy nose is quite complex and savoury. The palate is fairly rich
and vivid with spicy complexity and great intensity. Sweet but
savoury at the same time; brilliant stuff. Very good/excellent
93/100 (about £15 for a half)
Barbeito Sercial Reserve 10 years old
Complex and spicy with a lifted lemony acid edge to the nose.
Bright high-acid palate with lovely complexity. Fresh and nutty,
vivid and rich. Really nice. Very good/excellent 92/100
Barbeito Boal Reserve Veramar
Slightly shy nutty nose with some subtle spice notes, too. The
palate is rich and concentrated and has an unusual acidic edge.
Very appealing and with great length. Quite sweet. Very
good/excellent 90/100
Barbeito Boal Reserve 10 years old
Rounded, nutty caramel and spice nose is quite restrained.
Nutty, open palate with unusual acidity and great concentration.
Spicy, long finish. A thoughtful, complex wine that’s quite
sweet. Very good/excellent 91/100
Barbeito 20 year old Malvasia
Complex, intriguing nose with nutty, spicy, caramelly notes.
The palate is rich and quite sweet with good acidity. Quite
powerful with a spicy, raisiny complexity dominating. Great
balance and length here. Very good/excellent 94/100
Barbeito Verdelho 1980
Subtle, complex nose of crystalline fruits, spice and lemony
lifted acidity. Very unusual complex palate showing high acidity
and a nutty, lemony character. Interesting stuff. Very
good/excellent 92/100
Barbeito Verdelho 1981 (cask sample)
Very complex intense, spicy nose with notes of tar, spice,
caramel and fudge. The palate has lovely rich complexity with high
acidity in an explosive mouthful of flavour. Quite lovely.
Excellent 95/100
Barbeito Malvasia 1994 (cask sample)
This will be a single cask release. Very sweet spicy, toffee
and caramel nose. Complex, sweet and spicy on the palate with some
raisiny notes and good acidity. Nice spiciness. A rich, complex
style. Very accessible with some woody notes. Very good/excellent
92/100
Barbeito Malvasia 1885
Orange brown. Lovely complex nose of sweet raisins, tar and
spice – very beguiling. The palate is explosively rich with
lovely acidity. Deep, complex and incredibly long with some
caramel and spice. Breathtaking. Excellent 98/100
Barbeito Malvasia 1886
Profound, intense nose of tar and spice with some caramelly
notes. The palate is explosively rich with great concentration,
high acidity and complex flavours of caramel and tar. Great
length. Excellent 96/100
Tasted
in May 2003
Barbeito Single Harvest 1995
I’ve had this a number of times now. It’s made from
unfashionable Tinta Negra Mole, a cross between Grenache and Pinot
Noir that’s been grown on the island since the 19th century.
Made in a medium-dry style, it has a lovely complex, spicy nose
with a touch of marmalade and raisins. The palate has some
sweetness and lovely vivid acidity, with a nice orange peel
bitterness. Lots of complexity. Very good/excellent 92/100 (Around
£14, various outlets including Berry Bros)
Barbeito Boal Reserve Veremar
Complex nose with raisiny, caramel notes and an acid lift. The
palate shows a good concentration with a medium sweet character
and high acidity giving freshness. Lovely. Very good+ (£8.99)
Barbeito 10 year old Boal
Lovely smoky, spicy complexity to the nose with raisiny
caramel notes. Really lovely spicy palate showing a lemony edge
and good acidity. Some sweetness but overall brilliantly balanced
with marmaladey complexity. Very good/excellent 93/100 (£20)
Barbeito 20 year old blend
Malvasia
They’re the first company to try this: a blend of four
different Malvasias, the oldest 30 years old. Intense, herby,
spicy nose with freshness from the lifted lemony acid. Complex and
beguiling on the palate: spicy, intense, rich and full. Complex
and well balanced. Very good/excellent 94/100
Barbeito Malvasia 1993
Colheita Single Cask
Just 549 50 cl bottles of this made. Lovely forward nose is
warm, rounded and spicy with some caramel notes. Marmaladey and
spicy. Explosive palate is spicy, rich and intense with high
acidity and lots of complexity. Very good/excellent 94/100 (£17.95
for 50 cl)
Barbeito Verdelho 1980
This comes from three 620 litre French oak casks whose
contents were blended before bottling. The nose displays nice
savoury, slightly herbal spicy complexity. The palate is savoury
and rich with a spicy edge. Fine and elegant with high acidity, a
waxy texture and a hint of sweetness. Very good/excellent 91/100
Barbeito Verdelho 1902
Some 200 litres came from this cask, which was bottled
directly from the cask itself. It sells for around 250 Euros ex
cellar: this was the wine served at Ricardo’s mother and
father’s wedding. Deep orange brown colour. Massively complex
tarry, caramelly nose which is quite unusual, with woody, savoury
notes and an acid lift. The palate is hugely complex, showing
tarry, spicy, vanilla and raising notes together with lots of
acidity and a massive length. Quite amazing, and presumably an
immortal wine. Excellent 98/100
Barbeito Malvazia 1900
Complex herby nose is herby, leathery and spicy with some
sweet raisiny notes. There’s lovely caramelly and raisiny
complexity on the palate with huge acidity. Bracing and spicy with
enormous length. Marmalade and citrus fruits on the finish.
Excellent 95/100
Back
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see also: an earlier report on Barbeito's
wines; and a more recent one
(May 2004)
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