Austrian
red wines
Austria has been establishing an international reputation
for its white wines in recent years, but domestically red wines are
also popular. Are they any good? Yes, is the answer. I tried through
16 of them recently and came away nicely surprised. I didn’t
discover many world beaters, but the quality overall was pretty high.
I suspect, though, that because of the relatively strong domestic
demand, which keeps the prices up, most of these wines would fare
badly on international markets because of the strength of competition
at these price points.
There are four key Austrian red varieties, although others
are grown, including some ‘international’ grapes.
(1) Zwiegelt
The most abundant red grape; makes good wines ranging from simple
cherry fruit gluggers to more substantial reds destined for ageing.
(2) Blaufränkisch
Common in Burgenland this makes spicy, sturdy, berry fruited reds
which can have some tannic structure. Probably Austria’s best red
grape
(3) Blauer Portugieser
This red grape makes soft, approachable, juicy wines mainly for
early consumption. The most widely planted red grape but not for top
quality wines.
(4) St Laurent
Makes soft, slight herby, expressive reds; it’s a bit like Pinot
Noir.
The
wines
Strohmeier Blauer Wildbacher Neuberg 2002 Weststeiermark
Dry dusty, spicy nose of red berry fruits. Savoury palate shows
appealing ripe berry fruit with a sweet edge. Ripe and full.
Interesting. Very good+ 88/100
Domäne Müller ‘Out of Red’ Blauer Wildbacher in
Rot 2000 Weststeiermark
Assertive red berry fruit nose. The palate shows ripe spicy fruit
with chewy, spicy tannins: quite substantial. Ripe and appealing with
good structure. Very good+ 89/100
Dinstlgut Loiben Blauer Portugeiser 2003 Wachau
Vivid, fruity nose is very forward and ripe. The palate is soft
and accessible with cherryish fruit. A ripe easy drinker. Very good+
85/100
Fuchs-Weine Blauer Zwiegelt 2003 Südsteiermark
Very forward modern fruity nose is soft and appealing. There’s a
sweet liqueur-like edge to the cherryish fruit. The palate is soft and
ripe with accessible fruit and a spicy edge. Very good+ 86/100
Lenz Moser Prestige Blauer Zwiegelt 2002 Kremstal and
Neusiedlersee
Really nice spicy edge to the vivid raspberry fruit. Nicely
structured ripe fruit on the palate with some well judged oak. Very
good+ 88/100
Schwarz Zwiegelt Alte Reben 2002 Weinvertel
Blackcurrant and cherry nose is ripe and full. Quite assertive.
Woody, structured palate. Nice modern style. Very good+ 86/100
Jurtschitsch-Sonnhof Zweigelt Tanzer Reserve 2002
Kamptal
Deep coloured. Ripe, slightly sweet woody nose. The palate
displays caramel-edged berry fruit. Quite woody. Very good+ 86/100
Kurt Angerer Zweigelt Granit 2001 Kamptal
Fresh savoury, spicy, minerally nose. Lovely open palate of
rounded berry and blackcurrant fruit. Very fresh and appealing. Very
good/excellent 90/100
Winkler-Hermaden Olivin Blauer Zwiegelt 2001 Südsteiermark
Savoury, slightly spicy edge to the nose. Open ripe berry fruit on
the palate with some spiciness. Nice stuff. 87/100
Winzerkeller Neckenmarkt Vinis Unitis Blaufränkisch
2003 Mittelburgenland
Ripe, sweet chocolatey black cherry fruit nose. Very ripe
accessible fruit on the palate with a black fruit core. Modern styled.
Very good+ 88/100
Weninger Höchacker Blaufränkisch 2002 Mittelburgenland
Firm, ripe spicy chocolatey fruit on the nose. The palate is
dense, structured and spicy. This is a fairly serious, robust red with
lots of character and a dry finish. Very good/excellent 90/100
Kirnbauer Blaufränkisch Goldberg Barrique 2002
Mittelburgenland
Spicy, woody black fruits nose. Chewy black fruit palate with a
dry, woody edge. Nice fruit but probably overoaked. Very good+ 86/100
St Martinus Blaufränkisch 2000 Neusiedlersee-Hügelland
Ripe approachable nose of cherry and berry fruit. The palate is
chunky and chewy, showing a spicy character and ripe fruit. Quite
structured. Very good+88/100
Hafner Weine Hafner Blaufränkisch Barrique 2002
Neusiedlersee
Vivid cherry fruit nose with a hint of lifted acidity and a sweet
caramelly edge. The palate is spicy and rich with high acid. A bit
disjointed. Very good 84/100
Schloss Halbturn St Laurent 2002 Neusiedlersee
Lovely vivid spicy cherry and berry nose with a chocolatey edge.
Vivid fruit on the palate with a spicy edge from the wood. Rounded and
elegant, if a tiny bit woody. Very good/excellent 90/100
Höpler Erwein St Laurent 2001 Neusiedlersee
Ripe vivid open nose showing cherry and red berry fruit. Open and
attractive palate that’s quite structured and quite spicy. Some
elegance. Very good+ 87/100
Stockists:
as anyone who has tried to find Austrian red wines before in the UK
will know, they aren't that easy to get. But the situation is getting
better. Oddbins have one (a Zwiegelt from Weninger) as does M&S (a
nice St Laurent from Schloss Gobelsburg). Your best bet is an
independent. Noel Young has an interesting Austrian selection, and
newcomer Nick Dobson has just added a whole batch of reds to his
impressive Austrian range.
Noel Young Wines
56 High Street, Trumpington, Cambridge CB2 2LS
Phone: 01223 844744 Fax: 01223 844736
E-mail: admin@nywines.co.uk
Website: www.nywines.co.uk
Nick Dobson Wines
Phone: +44 (0) 118 9771545
Mobile: +44 (0) 7799 661694
Fax: +44 (0) 870 4602358
E-mail: nick.dobson@nickdobsonwines.co.uk
Website: www.nickdobsonwines.co.uk
see also: the
wonderful world of Grüner Veltliner
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