The
wines of
Dona
Maria, Alentejo, Portugal
Website:
www.donamaria.pt
Júlio
Tassara de Bastos (pictured) is one of the leading winemakers
in Portugal’s Alentejo region, and his family property, located
near Estremoz, is Quinta de Carmo. While wine has been made for a
long time here, it’s only since the late 1980s that its wines have
achieved international acclaim, under the direction of Júlio.
In
1992, he sold 50% of Quinta do Carmo to Domaines Barons de
Rothschild (Lafite). At this stage the winery and office operations
were transferred to the Carvalhas estate, where a new winery was
built. But Julio later ended up selling his stake in the winery, and
returning to his own operation. While he still owned Quinta do Carmo
itself (the house), he was no longer able to use the name. So he
started a new operation, Dona Maria.
Júlio
currently has 53 hectares of vineyards, an area that he plans to
expand further in the future. One of his focuses is to work with the
same special old clone of Alicante Bouschet that was at the heart of
the classic Quinta do Carmo Garrafeiras.
The
first grapes from Dona Maria were harvested in 2003. From the wines
I tasted, I’d say that Júlio is right
there at the forefront in the Alentejo, making some really special
wines.
Dona
Maria Rosé 2007 Alentejo
Very light in colour. Lovely, beautifully poised nose is
delicate and beautifully expressive with sweet, fresh, gently
strawberry flavoured fruit. Really elegant and fantastic. 90/100
Dona Maria Branco 2007 Alentejo
A blend of Arinto and Antăo Vaz, unoaked. Fresh, citrussy nose
is bright and expressive. The palate is lemony and crisp with lovely
brightness and subtly herby fruit. Very stylish. 90/100
Dona Maria Amantis Branco 2007 Alentejo
Amantis is Dona Maria’s modern range of wines. This is mainly
Viognier aged in French oak. Beautifully aromatic, expressive nose
with typical peach/pear Viognier characteristics. The palate is
concentrated and intense, with rich yet fresh fruit. Really serious
wine that finishes tight. 92/100
Dona Maria Tinto 2005 Alentejo
Nicely aromatic, fresh, cherry and berry fruit nose. The palate
is fresh and elegant with a lovely earthy spiciness. Real character
to this beautifully balanced red wine. 90/100
Dona Maria Amantis Tinto 2005 Alentejo
This is a blend of Cabernet Sauvignon, Syrah, Petit Verdot and a
little bit of Touriga Nacional. Vivid nose of bright red and black
fruits with a savoury, spicy, slightly medicinal edge. The palate is
dense, spicy and firm with a lovely medicinal, savoury edge. Has
dense, firm tannins. 91/100
Dona Maria Reserva 2004 Alentejo
A blend of 50% Alicante Bouschet with 25% Syrah and the
remainder split between Cabernet and Aragones, aged in French oak of
which 80% is new. Ripe, forward and intense spicy dark fruits nose,
with a dense savouriness. The palate is concentrated and intense
with firm, structured spicy dark fruits. Finishes tight and savoury
– a rich, intense wine. 92/100
Dona Maria Reserva 2005 Alentejo
A blend of 50% Alicante Bouschet with 25% Syrah and the
remainder split between Cabernet and Petit Verdot, aged in French
oak of which 80% is new. An amazing tight, concentrated wine. Dark,
brooding and tannic with lovely pure tight fruits bolstered by
massively intense structure. Quite fantastic. 94/100
Dona Maria Júlio B. Bastos Alicante Bouschet
2004 Alentejo
A varietal Alicante Bouschet made from a special clone and named
after Júlio’s father. Aromatic, spicy dark fruits nose is lush
but full with a nice spicy edge to the sweet fruit. The palate is
lush and dense, with great concentration and some spicy oak
influence, as well as a bit of tannic firmness. Finishes tarry and
spicy. Remarkable stuff with real intensity and length. 94/100
(11/08)
Wines tasted 11/08
Find these wines with wine-searcher.com
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